Paris, Dordogne & Bordeaux, May 2026, Trip Report
Part 1
While this tour has been drastically revised for 2027, I will share a report on the current tour. The primary reasons we chose this tour were to return to Paris and to visit Lyon and the Dordogne region for the first time. Our tour commenced mid-May. I started to prepare for typical cool temperatures and rain. Fortunately, my husband and I followed the weather reports, which indicated that there would be some hot weather. We then pivoted to more summer clothes, which we did need.
We had a very smooth overnight flight from Chicago to CDG on American Airlines, arriving early afternoon the day before the tour was to commence. Very fast through immigration and efficient pick up and transfer to the Sofitel Paris Baltimore. I really liked this Hotel and its location across the river from the Eiffel Tower. On previous Paris visits, we primarily stayed in the Opera house area. We had a lovely room at the Sofitel, overlooking a quiet side street. It was still cool in Paris, and we had time to walk over to the Trocadero area to enjoy the Eiffel Tower view, to visit the wonderful Architecture Museum (located in the Palais de Chaillot) and then walk up to the nearby Passey Cemetery. After a light dinner, we called it a night.
Day 1: The tour was to commence this evening. I really wanted to see the renovated Notre Dame. We took the Metro there and visited in the late morning. We then took our time walking back to the Hotel, stopping at a cafe for coffee, walking along the River, visiting the Petit Palace and having lunch there, walking down the Champs-Elysees to the Arc de Triomphe and back to the Hotel. A wonderful day. That night we met our Tauck tour director and traveling companions at a nice cocktail reception and very good dinner at the Sofitel. Our tour director, who was excellent, had emailed the group a couple of weeks prior to the tour to introduce herself and provide some restaurant and other suggestions about Paris.
Day 2: The group was transported by bus (with commentary by the local guide) to the Latin Quarter area, where we had an interesting guided tour of the Cluny Museum. Then we had a very good lunch at Les Ombres, which overlooks the Eiffel Tower, and returned to the Hotel around 3:00 p.m. My husband and I then visited the nearby Maritime Museum, which we enjoyed. We then walked across the River past the Eiffel Tower and to the Rue Cler area, where we had a light dinner.
Day 3: The group was transported by bus to Montmartre. We took the little train up to Sacre-Coeur. On a previous visit, we had taken the funicular, and I thought the train was better, as it wound around the neighborhood, with narration. We had a walking tour and a visit to the Musee de Montmartre, which I found very interesting. We then visited the small winery and vineyard, and I enjoyed hearing about its history (the wine is not the attraction). Then the group walked to our lunch stop, Le Moulin de la Galette, and had a very nice meal. We had some free time, and my husband and I visited Sacre-Coeur (for our second time). I know that others in the group did some shopping. The group then took the little train down. My husband and I left the group at that point - they were taking the bus back to the Hotel. We had timed tickets for the Matisse exhibit at the Grand Palais for 4:00 pm, so we took the Metro there. The exhibit was excellent, but quite crowded. After walking back to the Hotel, we had a light dinner nearby.
Day 4: The group was transported by bus to the Gare de Lyon train station. We had a very smooth ride to Lyon on the high speed train. Upon arrival, we had an excellent lunch at Repere. Then the bus took us up past Roman ruins to the Basilica of Notre Dame. We enjoyed the views and visited the Basilica. We took a funicular down to the Old Town, where we had an interesting walking tour. We walked through a couple of covered passageways through residences - called Traboules. They were used by the Resistance during the War. Also saw the old Courthouse where Klaus Barbie was tried. Lyon is a beautiful City with two rivers, the Rhone and the Saone. Our beautiful Hotel, the Intercontinental, is located on the Rhone. We had a very nice, quiet room on a courtyard. I would have liked a room facing the River. Apparently, some past Tauck clients complained about those rooms because there are some stairs, but that would not bother me. For dinner, the group met to walk together to a nearby local Bouchon restaurant (local, hearty food). We had an excellent meal. After dinner, my husband and I walked across the River to the promenade, where we had a nice walk and great people watching. It was also cool, as this was the first day of the heat wave.
Day 5: A really great day in Lyon. The group first visited an area of murals - very well done and realistic. Then to a silk factory for a tour and presentation (and people did make purchases). Then a tour of the covered food market, Halles Paul Bocuse, with independent time to shop or sample. Then to In Cuisine for a cooking class and lunch. It was fun and the food was good. We returned to the Hotel around 2:00 pm. My husband and I then walked to the main square area, where we visited a lovely church and went to the Fine Arts Museum. An excellent visit and we enjoyed a refreshment in the peaceful courtyard. That evening, we happened upon Saturday evening services at the pretty Church behind the Hotel - excellent acoustics. We then walked over to the same street where the group had dinner the previous evening, and had an outside table at Chez M'Man, where we had a very good price fix dinner. We followed that with another walk along the promenade along the River. I would have liked another night in Lyon, and will try to get back there in the future.
To be continued
Comments
Wonderful. Looking forward to the next installment.
Very good review. Sounds like they made some improvements!
Part 2
Day 6: The group departed Lyon by bus, driving through very pretty, hilly countryside - the volcanoes of the Auvergne region. We stopped in the small, Medieval town of Orcival - beautiful and charming. There, we first visited a chocolate shop, then had a very good lunch at a local restaurant - including a cheese tasting. Afterwards, with the local guide, we visited the Basilica of Notre Dame and its Madonna and child. After arrival at the Hotel les Glycines in Les Eyzies, my husband and I had a quick, refreshing swim in the pool. The Hotel is lovely, with beautiful grounds, and our room was spacious, comfortable and quiet. That night, the group had a tasting dinner at the Hotel. I thought the dinner was good, but not great. It was a hot evening, and the group was seated outside, so that may have impacted my opinion of the meal.
Day 7: A very nice day of sightseeing. The group first visited the medieval castle of Beynac - interesting history and great views. We then stopped in La Roque-Gageac, on the Dordogne River, to take photos - really pretty, with a cliff, caves and stone houses and a fort on one side and the River on the other side. We then drove to the beautiful, medieval town of Sarlat-la-Caneda. Our TD gave each member of the group 50 Euros for a scatter lunch. My husband and I had a quick lunch at a cafe with a shady courtyard. We were in foie gras land, so I enjoyed a salad with foie gras on toast. We then had some independent time to look around before meeting up with our local guide. At that point, some of the group chose to return to the Hotel. We stayed and enjoyed an interesting walking tour of the town, ending at the impressive Cathedral. Back at the Hotel, my husband and I went for a swim. Dinner on our own - we walked along the River into town and had dinner at a Cafe that had coolish outdoor seating.
Day 8: A fabulous and full day. An interesting drive to La Madeleine, a prehistoric troglodyte archeological site, where we first had a presentation by a paleontologist. Then one of the owners guided the group around the site - including along the Village built into the cliff. The group then returned to Les Eyzies, where some chose to return to the Hotel and others chose to continue with our excellent local guide for a short walking tour of Les Eyzies. It was worthwhile, and he took us up to the high street along the cliff, which we probably would not have explored on our own. From there, my husband and I bought a couple of sandwiches at a Patisserie in town and walked back along the River to the Hotel. After the break, the group met up at around 3:15 pm and drove to Eyrignac gardens, where we had a guided visit of the beautiful French gardens. Then we drove to the main event, the Lascaux IV cave museum. The group had a very interesting tour of the (replica) cave and Museum, after closing hours. Then an excellent group dinner at the Museum, prepared by our Hotel staff.
Day 9: The group headed to Bordeaux, first stopping for an interesting tour and tastings (hazelnut oil, walnut cake and dessert wine) at a Walnut Mill. We then drove into the Bordeaux region and stopped in lovely St. Emilion for a walking tour. We also had independent time in St. Emilion. My husband and I walked down to the square and had lunch outdoors at a Brasserie. I could not pass up another opportunity for salad with foie gras and a glass of St. Emilion red wine. The group then drove to Chateau de Ferrand winery for a guided tour and tastings. Interesting that the estate is owned by the Bich family, founders of the BIC corporation. We were all given fancy BIC pens. We then drove to Bordeaux and Inwood Hotel Burdigala. We had a comfortable, spacious, well air conditioned room on a quiet side street. The Hotel was within walking distance of the main attractions, a tram stop and the River. We had a choice of opting for an included dinner at the Hotel one or our three nights at the Burdigala. We chose night 2, so this evening we started walking toward the Cathedral and stopped at Brasserie Vinatier - a good choice because they had reasonable air conditioning and the food was good. Afterwards, walked down to the River and then back to the Hotel.
Day 10: For Bordeaux sightseeing, because of the heat, our TD pivoted from the planned walking tour, to a short walking tour to a little train for a fairly comprehensive tour of the City. Then, most of the group went with the guide and TD by tram to the area of the Wine Museum and the covered market. We were each given a City day pass that covered the Tram and many Museums. Everyone was on their own after arrival at the Wine Museum area. My husband and I had a light lunch at the Market. We then walked through the Museum (it was OK) and then had our included glass of wine. We then took the tram to the History Museum, recommended by the excellent local guide, and well worth the visit. We visited the nearby Cathedral of St. Andres. I would have liked to have visited the Art Museum, but we decided to take a break - it was quite hot. That evening we joined another couple from the group for our included dinner at the Hotel - it was good.
Day 11: This morning, the group drove through the Medoc wine area. We had a very good tour of Chateau Kirwin and a "picnic" lunch with tastings - the lunch was indoors and was excellent. We then took a short cruise across the Gironde Estuary to Blaye, and visited the Citadel, followed by an ice cream break. After returning to Bordeaux, my husband and I made a reservation at the same Brasserie we enjoyed on night 9. Because the heat wave had broken, we ate outside and enjoyed duck for 2. Followed by a walk to the River, which was really hopping on Friday night.
To be continued
Part 3
Day 12: After leaving Bordeaux, the group drove to Arcachon, a lovely seaside town. The TD oriented us to the town and we had independent time there. Some in the group chose to head to the market area. My husband and I enjoyed a cup of coffee at a bar and then walked the beautiful waterfront promenade. The group then drove up to La Corniches restaurant which overlooks the water and the large sand dune. There, we had an excellent lunch at a nice outdoors table. We arrived in Biarriz around 5:30 pm and checked into the Hotel du Palais. It is a beautiful Hotel on the Bay of Biscay - a former palace. We had a nice, spacious room with a water view. The bathroom, however, was very small - especially the shower. The staff was lovely and the restaurant where breakfast was served was beautiful. That evening, my husband and I walked along the waterfront promenade and into town (watching the surfers along the way). We had a light dinner of pintxos, as this is the Basque region of France. The restaurant was Christos, recommended by our TD. We ate outside and needed a jacket as it was cool. It was Saturday night and there was a big soccer game involving France vs. England, so the town was very lively.
Day 13: The group drove along the Coast to St. Jean de Luz, where a colorful local guide led us on a walking tour. This is another lovely seaside town. We had free time for lunch, further touring, shopping. My husband and I had a light outdoors lunch at a cafe, where we shared some pintxos and a salad. We then visited the Church of St. John the Baptist, a beautiful Basque church with a magnificent wooden Baroque altar. The local guide had discussed the Church on the tour, but Sunday services precluded entry by the group. We returned to the Hotel around 2:30 pm. My husband and I then visited the Russian Orthodox Church located across from the Hotel and then walked through town and visited the Church of St. Joseph. We then walked back along the promenade to the Hotel, where we enjoyed a swim in the fabulous outdoor pool overlooking the Bay. That evening, the group met for the Farewell Dinner, which I found disappointing. First, there was no pre-dinner reception, which is always an opportunity to socialize and start saying farewells to your traveling companions. Second, I thought the dinner was mediocre. Fortunately, there was a beautiful sunset, so some of the group stepped outside after dinner to enjoy it.
Day 14: Eight from our group left the Hotel after breakfast for the late morning Air France flight to Paris CDG. We stayed one night at the airport Hilton, as the connection time for the American Airlines flight to Chicago, went from tight to impossible when we were making air reservations. That worked out fine for us and our flight to Chicago was very smooth and stress free.
In summary, this tour was enjoyable. The highlights for me were Paris, Lyon and the Dordogne. I felt that the trip fizzled out a bit at the end. The seaside towns, while beautiful, were not as interesting to me as the other parts of the tour. I will add that we have visited San Sebastian, in Spain, and loved it, so the Basque seaside towns were not a new experience.
Thanks for the very descriptive and well written review. I enjoyed reading about your experiences.