Trip Report, June 2024
My husband and I returned from this tour about a week and a half ago. It was wonderful. We had a great group of 17 and an outstanding, veteran tour director. Previous tours we have taken include South Africa Elegant Adventure and Kenya and Tanzania. This tour was very active, varied and exhilarating.
Getting there: We flew United from Chicago to Newark to Johannesburg, where we spent the night at the Intercontinental Hotel. It was our understanding that we were supposed to claim our luggage in Joburg and recheck it the next day. After waiting for it to appear, we asked the United people, who told us the bags would be kept at the airport overnight. We were slightly nervous about that, but had been careful to refrain from packing anything enticing in the checked Tauck duffels. The Intercontinental is directly across from the terminal and worked out very well. The next morning we ate a very good breakfast at the hotel and went across to the teminal. Even though we had our boarding passes, we decided to go to the SA Airlink check-in counter to inquire about the checked bags. We were told that they were in the airport, but they needed to know the weight of each bag. We gave them that information, went through security and had a very smooth 11:00 a.m. flight on SA Airlink to Livingstone, where we arrived around
1:00 p.m. Upon arrival, we learned that 6 of our Tauck group had missed the flight because of a short connection time on British Airways. They did not arrive in Livingstone until the following day.
Weather was beautiful and the two of us had the boat ride to the Royal Livingstone dock. Lots of fun - hippos, crocodiles and a nice view of the spray from the falls. This was our gift of time night. We enjoyed walking the grounds, seeing the resident wildlife, and having a sundowner at the cocktail area on the river and then dinner at Kabu, the restaurant on the river. Beautiful hotel, lovely room and good food.
The next day (first day of tour), we walked to the falls and spent some time on a couple of trails that I assumed (correctly) we would not be taking with the group. The falls were flowing very strongly, although water levels are not high this year. We took the Photographic Hike, which skirts the gorge and goes almost to the bridge. Then we took the difficult Boiling Pot Hike down to the gorge. It was very rocky and wet in places and I don't recommend this hike for everyone. The views of the bridge and the so-called boiling pot, however, were fantastic. On our Elegant Adventure tour, we had taken a helicopter ride over the falls, so we did not need to repeat that experience. We had a light lunch at the hotel and then a much needed nap. That night, the group met for a cocktail reception next to the river, and a very good dinner on the lawn.
Day 2: Morning safari ride and then walk to see the mother and daughter Rhinos. Very nice cruise with lunch on the Zambezi River. Then, lots of fun with the group at Victoria Falls. We walked to the top of the trail where the water was flowing over the falls and then along the Knife Edge Bridge. We were given rain ponchos, which almost everyone wore, because there was a lot of spray. Still excellent views of the falls and some rainbows. We wore quick dry shorts that day and chose to walk back to the hotel rather than ride, as it helped dry us off. Hair dryers helped to dry our shoes. Included dinner at any one of the three hotel restaurants.
Day 3: Bus ride to Botswana border, easy entry. Then we had a boat safari and lunch on the Chobe River. One highlight was a group of elephants crossing the river directly in front of our boat. We then drove to the Kasane Airport and flew to Eagle Island Lodge. Great views of the Delta. We were picked up in safari vehicles and driven a short distance to a tree, where a female leopard was surveying her territory, and watched her for quite awhile. We later had a sundowner at the bar down by the water - beautiful. Lovely, spacious room and an excellent camp.
Day 4: Early morning game drive. Highlight was a pride of 9 lions. After and before lunch (depending on when scheduled), three at a time, we took a 30 minute helicopter rides over the Delta. It was wonderful. Later, the group was split into two. Half went on a walking safari. The other half went on mokoro rides. We had the later ride, which coincided with sunset and a herd of elephants that came down to the water for their evening refreshments. Then a sundowner and dinner. Great day.
Day 5: Morning excursion to local village, where we were shown around and had an opportunity to buy crafts. On the way back to the camp, we stopped to observe the female adult leopard, first on a branch, and then on the ground with her female cub. Around Noon, the group flew to Sanctuary Chief's Camp. This is truly a 5 star property. (Because of the closure of the second Belmond camp used by Tauck, this year the groups are staying at a handful of different camps). After lunch, we had an evening game drive. The highlight for me was wild dogs, and a sundowner. That night, lions could be heard roaring in the camp. I, of course, slept through it.
Day 6: Mornng game drive. Many animals - reminded me of the Serengeti, as we went to an area with a lot of water. Male lion, giraffes, large herds of elephants, buffalo, zebra, hippos many different types of antelopes, birds, etc. Great afternoon game drive - our guide was excited that we saw a Wild African Cat. Nice sundowner.
To be continued
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Part 2
Day 7: Morning game drive at Chief's Camp. Highlights were male lion with nice mane and adolescent male leopard. After lunch, we flew to Camp Kalahari. After a snack and settling in to our tents (much more rustic than the other camps), we took a walk with the Bushmen and had a sundowner on the pans before dinner. This was the coldest location, so I was happy to have layers.
Day 8: Very early morning start to drive out to the meerkats encounter. Saw ostriches, elephants and wildebeast along the way. Loved this activity. The meerkats did pop out and visited for awhile, but it was windy and they went back into their tunnels. So, we had our nice outdoor breakfast nearby and then went back to join the meerkats as they ran around looking for and digging up breakfast. They seem to like grubs. Did not see them find any scorpions.
At 3:30 p.m. we departed for our pans adventures. Eleven of the group, including me and my husband, chose to ride the ATVs. The rest had a game drive. The plan was to meet up at the outdoor dinner site and then those who chose to sleep out would do so, and the rest go back to the camp. The ATV ride was a blast. We were at the front behind the leader and had an exhilarating ride, and an opportunity to take photos out on the pans. By the time we arrived at the dinner site, however, the staff were putting out the fire and packing up, as the winds had picked up. So, everyone went back to camp for dinner. We had an interesting night safari ride to camp. We were definitely going to sleep out, if given the opportunity, but I was not unhappy about having more sleep in the morning and more time to pack up for Cape Town. A lot of extra work for the wonderful staff at Camp Kalahari.
Day 9: Breakfast and departed for bush flight to Maun airport, where we flew SA Airlink to Cape Town. Arrival at the One and Only at around 5:00 p.m. Loved this hotel. Beautiful, spacious room with balcony and Table Mountain view. Our TD offered two orientation walks, one soon after arrival, and one at 7:00 p.m. We joined him for the second and went to dinner directly afterwards. Four of us had an excellent dinner at Baia, where our dinner companions had made reservations.
Day 10: Beautiful, clear day. Morning visit to Table Mountain, District 6 Museum and Bo-Kaap neighborhood. Then free time. We had a quick lunch and then did a little shopping. We then visited Two Oceans Aquarium. Well worth the visit - we were there during feeding time for the penguins. Then the group had a lovely evening drive along the coast to a chef's home, where we had a very good dinner.
Day 11: Drove to Cape Point Nature Reserve and the Cape of Good Hope. Visited the lighthouse and then had lunch in Simon's Town. After lunch, six of our group, including me and my husband, chose the boat ride along the coast. The rest of the group went to see the penguins. The boat went near the penguin area and we saw them swimming in the water, then rode along the coast to a large rock where seals were sunning themselves. We observed them for awhile and then headed back. We had been warned of rough waters, but it was not too bad. I enjoyed the ride and loved the moist air after the dryness of the desert. That evening, very nice farewell cocktail reception in the bar area and then a very good dinner.
The next day, we had an afternoon flight, so we enjoyed breakfast and more walking around the waterfront. We flew SA Airlink to Joburg, then United to Newark and then Chicago. All very smooth. I actually slept 8 hours on the long haul flight.
I won't forget this trip and, most of all, the kind people we met along the way. The staff at all of the hotels and camps were outstanding.
Later, I will post some thoughts about weather, clothes, etc.
Thank you very much for your outstanding and detailed review. My family and I will be going on this trip in August and I will absolutely look forward to reading more of your review about weather, clothes, etc. Thank you for taking the time to write a review. Others will benefit from your recommendations.
Yes, thank you for taking the time to write this up. I’m on the trip in September and am pulling together my pre- and post-tour activities this week. Im so glad to hear that it was wonderful!
We took this tour in September 2016. The difference will be the temperatures. It will be extremely hot at Camp Kalahari. The night sleeping on the salt pan was one of our favorite Tack experiences.watching the stars, and even seeing satellites in the very dark conditions was wonderful.
Some additional thoughts on our early June tour:
We decided to go on the tour in early June because we were hoping for good flow at Victoria Falls, water in the Delta, minimal mosquitoes and we wanted to avoid hot weather. The Falls were beautiful and we experienced the spray on the bridge, water was slowly flowing into the Delta (probably more so now), experienced mosquitoes only at Victoria Falls and Eagle Island and the weather was pleasant. It was cool on morning game drives at the camps, and we were provided hot water bottles and lap blankets. Those came off fairly soon. However, Meerkat morning at Camp Kalahari had the coolest weather. I wore extra layers, including pajamas under my clothes.
It was very dry and dusty in the Delta and the Salt Pans. I recommend really good lip balm (Eucerin or similar). Standard chapstick was not enough. The balm I received in the United flight was good. I also recommend very good hand lotion, which I did bring from home. My face moisturizers were up to the task and I did not have problems with my contact lenses, except at Camp Kalahari, where it was too dark to mess with them.
We had beautiful, clear skies, sunrises and sunsets and starry nights. Lots of opportunities to see the Southern Cross.
We took malarone (our third time) and had no problems whatsoever. Took it at breakfast each day and made sure to have milk or yogurt with it, sometimes both.
The food on this tour was really good. I was still careful (no raw fish in Cape Town), but felt excellent the whole time. Did take Emergen C a few times when we saw a couple of people with cold symptoms. And, of course, avoided tap water. We drank a lot of water.
Tauck rolling duffel worked out very well. Plenty of space. We used packing cubes. Easy to slip out and set on shelves.
Items I brought with and used: buff, binoculars, gloves, small flashlight, hat with chin strap, beanie.
Laundry service at the camps was great. I brought mostly quick dry clothes. At the last minute, I added shorts and a couple of t-shirts, which I used. T-shirts are good for layering. Also brought yoga pants, which I used in rooms. Most had yoga mats available.
Outerwear: we both brought a fleece jacket and a good windbreaker/rain coat. Perfect for layering.
Weather in Cape Town was beautiful - warmer than I expected. Table Mountain was obscured 50% of the time, which I understand is common. Very nice when we visited and we had sufficient time to walk the loop at the top.
Cape Town shopping: The Watershed has lots of small shops and vendors.
Lotusgirl, did the Meerkats climb all over you, or did the Pandemic stop them being acclimated to humans. That was another highlight of our trip.
British - we had an amazing, up close and personal encounter with the Meerkats. They were not shy.
As you know, no two trips are identical and encounters with wild animals are not scheduled and may be unpredictable. I think it is important to be flexible, especially in Africa. Planes may not run like clockwork, arrival at a camp may be delayed because the group was stopped to observe a leopard. We had an easy-going, flexible group.
Lotusgirl (and anyone else who can chime in)--As I prep for my trip...
Can you tell me how far in advance of your JNB-LVI flight you arrived at JNB? I'm following your route, but starting on the east coast. (And was also told by United that I would have to retrieve my bag for my overnight layover.) This may be a silly question, but is there a way to lock the Tauck rolling duffel?
I am considering the Mukuni Boma dinner at the Royal Livingstone for one of my pre-nights. It was not included as part of the tour, correct? Do you have any insight on the traditional dinner/show other than what I can see online?
I saw a mention in a different trip report that high tea was included in the hotel stay, but the traveler wasn't aware until it was too late. What was the case for your trip?
And lastly, was your group able to ride the cable car up Table Mountain? The online itinerary doesn't include it, but perhaps because it is weather-dependent. (It will reopen from regular maintenance work just before my trip.)
Thanks!
When we took the tour in 2016, afternoon tea was included but there was actually little time to take it. It might have been just a couple of hours before the farewell dinner, I can’t recall.
Never heard of a Makuni dinner
You can lock any duffel. We stopped using locks on any suitcases because even though they were approved TSA locks, they were generally missing by the time we got to our destination . For all our trips, we use zip ties and pack a small pair of scissors in the outside pocket of the suitcase so we can cut them off when we arrive. This should deter an opportunist thief. One advantage we see, is that it is easy to see if our suitcase has been open which might not necessarily be the case with a lock if say, a TSA person does replace it.
Referring to Lotusgirl above. Everyone who posted about their tours before we went mentioned the meerkats perching all over them, it was not unique or unusual back then. The sleeping on the Salt-pan was left as a secret surprise until we went when I accidentally spilled the beans. It is usually possible later in the season around August onwards. Before that, there can be water around so it is not possible. We plan to go again but are nervous to go earlier incase we can’t experience it again.
Getting to Vic Falls makes flying to the trip a bit of a pain. We are lucky to have been to Vic Falls three times. Now I wish I could do a tour that misses it out, it would make the flying so much easier.
HooHeel - our United flight to Joburg arrived at about 7:30 pm, around an hour and a half late. We had waited for some people to make their connection in Newark. I used twist ties and a TSA lock on the Tauck duffel.
I saw the Boma dinner at the Royal Livingstone online too. A Boma dinner is basically an outside, candlelight dinner buffet with traditional African foods. The staff sings too. On this trip, we did have one such dinner at Eagle Island camp. It was very good. The dinner at the Chef’s house, in CapeTown, also excellent, was indoors, but consisted of African specialties.
I did not look into high tea.
We did ride the cable car up to Table Mountain. I think it is not mentioned because it is weather dependent - perhaps a 50% shot.
Lotusgirl, thank so much for your review; it brought back many wonderful memories of that fabulous trip! Did you happen to meet Managers Baker Sebe and Rachel at Eagle Island (my FAVORITE camp)? Not only was the staff warm, courteous and professional; they sure could carry a tune. I will hear that music forever. Happy Future Travels!
@British and @Lotusgirl, Thanks to you both!
I just received my final documents for our August trip to B-Z-SA. The attached was a little confusing (had to read it twice). I made a phone call to Tauck for more clarity. The reservationist on the phone had to even ask someone else!
"We look forward to welcoming you on your upcoming Tauck journey Botswana, South Africa & Zambia. Many memorable discoveries await, with surprises and delights along the way. We can't wait to share them with you!
We do want to let you know that we have made the following change to your tour:
Please be advised that the Botswana, South Africa and Zambia tour does not include a visit to Zimbabwe. Additionally a visa fee for Zambia is not required, though you will receive a stamp in your passport.
• Travelers should have 4 consecutive pages for transit or entry within South Africa and two additional pages for entry in Zambia or transit through Zimbabwe, for a total of 6 pages.
• If you are arriving into Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport in Livingstone Zambia and plan on visiting the Zimbabwe side of Victoria Falls, you may purchase a SINGLE ENTRY VISA on the Zambia/Zimbabwe border for $30 USD.
• If you are arriving into Victoria Falls International Airport in Zimbabwe: In addition to a valid passport, U. S. citizens are also required to have a visa to enter Zimbabwe, for the transfer to the Royal Livingstone Hotel In Zambia. You will need to purchase a SINGLE ENTRY VISA for $30 USD. If you plan on visiting the Zimbabwe side of Victoria Falls (after entering Zambia), before your Tauck journey begins, you will need to purchase a double entry visa for $45 USD".
It’s not confusing. It’s making you aware that if you fly via Zimbabwe or want to go over the bridge at the falls from Zambia side into Zimbabwe, you will need the visa. Some people want to do this and don’t realize that you need a visa. Some people fly into Zimbabwe because it might give a bigger choice of flights to do this. I believe Alan S flew into Zimbabwe for this tour some years ago. Certainly, when Victoria Falls is the beginning or end of a Southern Africa tour, it makes it really tricky to get sensible flights from the US. We had this problem early post pandemic for the ‘Odyssey’ tour. We have never rebooked it and have visited the area with another tour company since.
We didn't fly into Victoria airport which is 11 mi. south of the town of the falls and town of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, but considered it.
Several airlines, including Ethiopian which we had used several years earlier for K&T have flights into Vic Falls. The timing wasn't the best and Tauck said they would not provide land transport from Vic Falls airport since it requires a border crossing from Zimbabwe to Zambia and I believe you must switch land carriers before the Zimbabwe border station- the border is right in the middle of the bridge- walk over the bridge and get a second transfer after the Zambia border station, if you book your own transfer. Instead, like most people, we arrived at Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport, formerly Livingstone Airport, in Zambia.
However, instead of the standard single entry Zambia Visa available upon arrival required at that time, we got the KAZA UNIVISA for the same price or cheaper. (The Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA) is a conservation area, spanning five southern African countries; Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe) It allowed for multiple entries into Zambia and Zimbabwe- one of our pre-tour activities was a walk across the Vic Falls bridge into Zimbabwe. Check it out if you are interested in crossing the bridge into Zimbabwe. Look at Google maps so you are familiar with the area, borders and know the difference between Zambia, the town of Livingstone, Victoria falls (the falls), the town of Victoria Falls, and Zimbabwe.
Our friends at the Zimbabwe border station.
I just did this for the Wildlife Odyssey tour. We flew SAA into Vic Falls from Johannasburg and purchased a single visa at the airport. We crossed the border into Zambia for our stay at the Avani, a Tauck approved hotel. We booked this hotel on our own, but since it was a Tauck approved hotel, Tauck provided transportation. We changed vehicles at the border. While in Zambia we walked to the falls a couple of times and went on a safari to see the guarded almost extinct 4 Northern White Rhinos. On the grounds of the Avani are zebras, giraffes, baboons and impalas. Our tour 2 days later began at The Elephant Camp so we crossed back into Zimbabwe from Zambia. This time we purchased a double visa at the border and did not have to change vehicles at the border. We purchased a double visa because the tour returned to Zimbabwe from Botswana. Some of the group had purchased a KAZA and were required to purchase a single visa when we crossed back into Zimbabwe from Botswana, which delayed our crossing.
SAdivr, you must have been on a different tour! Your were likely on the Wildlife Odyssey: South Africa, Botswana & Zimbabwe tour which starts at the Elephant Camp) The Botswana, South Africa & Zambia tour, the subject of this thread, does not enter Zimbabwe at all.
Yes, I was on the Wildlife Odyssey and will add that info to my post.
Lotusgirl --Can you help me cut through the clutter? What type(s) of electrical adapter did you use?
-I think I'll be good with Type G /UK at the Royal Livingstone.
-And type M /South Africa at the One&Only in Cape Town.
-Was type M also good at the camps in Botswana?
If you have a link to the one you bought, I'd be much appreciative. Maybe I'll need two, but I'm certain that I don't need all five!
I brought and used M and G.