Portrait of India Blog
I'm on the Portrait of India tour right now and am blogging our experiences. I've only done the initial few days but I'll continue and will post mopre here as we continue on the trip.
You can see the beginning of our trip at https://www.mikeandjudytravel.com/2024-3India-01.htm
I usually improve the blog after we get home so treat this as the "first draft of history'.
[Added note: no set of pictures and text can convey the real experience of being there. However, Tauck does essentially the same things on the same tours so this can give you an idea of what you’ll do on this tour.]
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Comments
You're off to a good start on your tour. Brings back lots of memories.
A couple questions.
It appears you went to the Raj Ghat on your own. Is it no longer included in the tour?
Have you used the rooftop pool at the Leela Palace? You get some decent views from there, especially in the afternoon when you can get some great shots of the Red Sun (viewing through the smog you get lots of red sun shots throughout India).
You will be on tour during Dawili which adds some fun things to see and do.
We had Annie Dowling for our tour years ago. At the time, she was exhausted from being treated so badly by Indian men in general. One day, she got her hand trapped by one of the men who could not care less. At the end of the tour, she left for home before most of us had flights. The day before, we had our itinerary changed so that we left our last hotel very early morning instead of what the paperwork given to us at the start of the tour said—something like, enjoy your morning in this beautiful hotel—-no one was pleased. It meant we were all up more than 24 hours before our departure flights back home. We were all convinced it was because Annie had an earlier flight. It was one of those rare times I have called Tauck to comment about it.
Looking forward to your blog. I’m sure you will have lots to say about Varanasi. It’s a shame the tour no longer goes to Khajuraho, an interesting train ride to get there and lots of interesting carvings. I believe the train schedule no longer works to get there.
@Smiling Sam We went to Raj Ghat on our own. It is not included as part of the Tauck tour. On the first day of tours, we went to Birla House which is where Gandi was assassinated. Maybe they switched Raj Ghat to Birla House.
I did go up to the 11th floor of the Leela Palace, just to see what was up there - didn't swim in the pool. You can get a view, but only in one direction - unless I missed a door or something. The pool is an infinity pool on one side of the hotel so I could only see in one direction - meaning I couldn't get to that side of the hotel. I could certainly look over the pool.
The Leela Palace is a very nice hotel.
@British I'm sorry you had a less then ideal experience with Annie Dowling. So far, she's been very good on this tour. Certain Indian men (usually middle aged) seem to feel really entitled. We had one situation where we were waiting in line to get into the airport (you have to have your passport and ticket checked) and this guy just walks up to the guard and jumps the line. In the US, someone might have punched him.
Another time, Judy had an aisle seat and this middle aged man was in the middle. He took off his shoes and put one foot on top of his other leg, with his bare foot towards Judy. Then, when we arrived, he wanted to jump out to the aisle before the aircraft had even stopped - so he could get our first. I had to tell him to wait. It seems to be at least as bad as in Muslim countries - as far as treatment of women and men feeling entitled.
I'm working on Varanasi now. It was interesting, but it does not call me back.
Regarding poverty, there is lots of poverty and filth in India, but I have not seen shanty towns like there are in Africa. Maybe we'll encounter that later.
Just a comment for anyone going on this trip. I highly recommend going one day early and taking a private guide to Old Delhi. The whole experience was really interesting. Please read my description of our private tour and be generous with the rickshaw drivers (in person - don't let your guide handle it - unfortunately, he may keep it) . They are really poor and a nice tip will make a difference to them - and the amount of your tip is peanuts to us.
Also, try to get in touch with your guide and work out an itinerary that doesn't duplicate what Tauckl will do. If not possible, do it in the morning of your private tour.
Mike - did you tip in USD or get local currency?
We're doing this tour in just under 2 months. I'm arriving a "day" early, with day in quotes because my flight arrives at 1 AM. So not sure I'll be up for touring or even have time for it. What time on day 1 did the tour start? I got got my final itinerary a few days ago and all it says is it starts in the afternoon of day 1 with a briefing and driving tour. Is the morning/early afternoon enough time for Old Delhi?
Also staying an extra "day" in Mumbai at the end, again with day in quotes as my flight departs ~1AM, but at least I'll have a full day for whatever.
I tipped in local currency. The hotel said the poorer people had problems converting currency. I suppose the money changers charge them a big fee, and they have to take the time to go to a money changer. Local currency is more convenient for them.
The Leela Palace has an ATM and that’s a good way to get local currency.
We started our private tour at 9am but since we had to adjust things with our guide, it was probably 9:30am when we departed. We went until 5pm but could have easily gone back to the hotel at 4pm.
On Day 1 of the tour we met at 1:30pm so I don't think that would be enough time to do a private tour. I suppose you could start earlier than 9am but that would be a squeeze.
When we went to India, many people were finding that their credit cards would not work in the ATM’s. Even though they had informed the credit card company before their trip. I particularly remember the TD specifically taking us all to an ATM and that happening too. We did not need to convert any money at that time but tried out of curiosity and were one of the few who was successful and we hadn’t even told our credit card company thay we were traveling.Maybe this has changed now.
No problem with the ATM when I was there. I didn't notify my bank (Chase) that we were traveling but I didn't get a lot of money - about $100 US (later, I got an additional $50). With tips and paying the tour guide, I spent all of that $100 and paid for lunch with a credit card. So the private tour was about $150 more than what I expected.
Mike - in the 2018 version of the tour both Raj Ghat and Birla House were included in the tour.
I sent out the second installment of our India blog - https://www.mikeandjudytravel.com/2024-3India-02.htm
In this installment we visit the Taj Mahal, which was very interesting.
Mike - Enjoying your blog, as we prepare for our trip.
Have you taken any taxis during free time? If so, do they accept credit cards or is cash necessary? Are they metered or do you negotiate a price?
Mike, it’s amazing how many identical (I mean the same angle, perspective, etc.) photos you have that I have from my trip 6 years ago.
A couple of differences in your tour from our tour 6 years ago:
I don’t recall anyone from our tour getting a tented room like you got.
You are still a few days prior to Diwali. When we got to the Rambaugh Palace Diwali was underway and so there were some additional candle lighting ceremonies that we participated in and some fireworks.
Hopefully you get some special events once you get into Diwali. I’m assuming you don’t complete your tour before it starts.
Yes, Diwali starts this year on October 31st. I don’t remember where we’ll be that day.
I suppose each tour does about the same things so same pictures.
@bkmd. I haven’t taken any taxis but I suppose local currency is best. I was told they are cheap but agree on a price before you get in.
There might be better quality taxis that take credit cards.
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A note for new travelers. If you don’t agree on a price before you get in you’ll find the price is quite large at the end of the ride.
Re: cabs/tuktuks
When I used rides, either the TD or hotel concierge negotiated the price. Often we hired the ride for several hours—the driver would stay with us as we wondered and/or shopped around. Invariably the driver had a friend who had ‘the best and the cheapest’. We didn’t want to insult so we obliged with a fast walk-through. The fares were not expensive at all. The method of payment was also part of the negotiations; mostly it was US dollars but sometimes rubees. When we were on our own for dinner, the concierge got us a ride to the restaurant and when we left the restaurant, the restaurant arranged for transportation back to the hotel (at our expense). I do not think we used credit cards for the rides.
Important Note: always have the hotel card with the address with you as well as the addresses of the place(s) you are going.
NancyCohen - Very helpful information. Thank you.
Yes, thanks.
The third installment of our blog is now available - https://www.mikeandjudytravel.com/2024-3India-03.htm
I hope you enjoy it.
Mike - Do they no longer offer elephant rides up to the Amber Fort/Palace. In our tour (2018) you had the option of the vehicle or an elephant ride. Some people chose each option.
Here's one of the couples that chose the elephant ride arriving at the Amber Fort/Palace.
Also in Jaipur do they no longer do a balloon ride. If not, that's a shame. It was a lot of fun.
Here's a picture just after takeoff.
Sam - did you have enough leg room on the elephant?
I chose the vehicle option for that very reason. My legs, being 28’ 10” tall, would have draped onto the ground.
Haha! 😂
When we took the tour, the TD told us the elephants were badly treated so some of us took the jeeps instead.
Mike: your blog & Tauck comments are wonderful & thanks!
No, elephant rides are no longer an option.
Also no balloon rides.
Thank you, dwannand
I enjoy doing portraits and have a few in this installment which I thought were good.
One more comment. There is poverty in India but it’s nothing like Africa.
The people of India smile at you. If you look at someone and smile you’ll get a big smile in return. Old or young.
Visiting here you are led to wonder, “Why are some countries wealthy and others poor?”
There are vast differences between the two. India is one country and it is a democracy. Africa is 54 countries. For me, the poverty is worse in India and the pollution is terrible. The cast system treats people badly, the obligation to have male children, the treatment of women, rape is rampant, the overcrowding of homes in the cities.
There is poverty in this country and yet it is the richest country and has massive problems,
I have always found joy in every African person I have met and helplessness in many Indians I have interacted with.
Are you enjoying the tour, it seems as if you are finding it very tiring. Even though Tauck always has way too much food, I’m not sure I could keep skipping dinner and going from lunch to breakfast the next day with nothing to eat in between. There seems to be more free time than when we took the tour, There was no balloon ride when we took it either.
I like that you are including more pictures than usual.
I suppose we all have our opinions and they may differ.
[Added note: For those who have not been to both Africa and India and wish to form their own opinion, you can review my blogs of our trips to various countries of Africa. I did not focus on the living conditions of poor Africans, but I did visit one shanty town and observed a number of others - and have some pictures of the conditions they live in. I had been told that India was poor so I was on the lookout for similar situations in India but never saw anything like in Africa.]
Mike
My wife Tess and I are eagerly anticipating the next installment of your incredible blog! We are scheduled to do the Tauck POI in Feb 2026.
The various cultures of India seem to be very complex & exotic (to us). We haven’t been to either India or Africa. Your POI tour seems to be physically demanding, and at the same time very comprehensive and satisfying.
Thank you for devoting so much time and effort to your blog; it has meant a lot to us, both the photos and the accompanying prose.
Sincerely
Dave and Tess Annand (Tennessee)
PS your dog is adorable!!