Trip Report, Essence of Japan, October 2024
Part 1
Last week, my husband and I returned from this great tour, which had commenced mid-October. It was interesting and fun, and we enjoyed it, expecially the varied cultural experiences. We had an excellent tour director and local guides and a nice group of 24. For the most part, the weather was quite good.
Air travel: We flew JAL (Japan Airlines) from Chicago to Tokyo. Coming home, Osaka to Tokyo to Chicago. Really liked JAL and would not hesitate to fly them again. Food was very good - we both had the Japanese dinners. The flight attendants were plentiful and very attentive. Business class seats were comfortable.
We arrived a day early into Haneda Airport. The immigration line was long. We did have the QR codes printed out and I think that helped, as we were pulled out of the long line and slightly expedited. We were efficiently met and driven to the Shangri-La, an approximate 45 minute drive. We arrived at 5:00 pm - very nice, spacious, quiet room with a good view over the City. In an effort to stay awake, we took a walk around the fascinating nearby rail station. There, we had a light dinner of pizza and salad at The Old Station, which my husband had come across while researching.
Day 1 of Tour: The tour was to commence this evening. During the day, in the morning we took a tour of the Imperial Palace grounds. I had pre-booked this free government tour on the Imperial Palace website 2 months in advance. I was glad we were able to see areas of the Palace grounds that are accessible only with this tour, including the Palace itself. The tour was very crowded, with various groups divided by language. The English group was the largest, and it was hard to hear the guide unless you were close to her. We then bought a Bento box lunch, enjoyed it back at the hotel, and headed for the Metro. We took the Metro to and from the Shinjuku area, where we visited the Gyoen National Garden. Very pretty and the Metro itself is interesting to experience.
The group met at 5:30 pm to depart for the Meiji Kinenkan Reception Hall, where we had our Welcome cocktails and appetizers, dinner and Sumo wresting demonstration. A nice opportunity to meet with the group and the tour director and the local guide that was with us for most of the tour.
Day 2: Tokyo touring. Morning visit to Meiji Shrine with Shinto ceremony. Sporadic light drizzle, so remember to bring raincoat and umbrella. Then, a walk through the Tsukiji fish market. Lots of tempting food, but I was saving up for lunch. Excellent lunch at Nobu. Afternoon Taiko drum demonstration and participation. A lot of fun.
That evening, on our own, we took the Metro to Shibuyu (quite crowded). We walked around, visited the famous Scramble Crossing and then had a light dinner at a Tapas restaurant.
Day 3: Morning visit to Tokyo National Museum - very good. Teppanyaki lunch (wagyu beef) at Ittetsu Restaurant. Then, a visit to the Senso-Ji Buddhist Temple.
That evening, dinner on our own, four of us took a taxi to the nearby Ginza area, where we had a Sukiyaki dinner at a restaurant that our fellow travelers had researched and made reservations at. Casual and fun.
Day 4: The group walked over to the Tokyo rail station and we took a 33 minute bullet train to Hakone. It was colder and damp. We had a cruise on Lake Ashi. Unfortunately, Mt. Fuji was obscured by clouds. We had a nice buffet lunch at Lakeside Grill. By then it had brightened up and we visited the Hakone Open-Air Museum. Very beautiful and interesting. It also has a small indoor Picasso museum.
We then arrived at the Hyatt Regency Hakone Resort and Spa. Very nice and quiet. We donned our Yukatas and went to our flower arranging class, which I enjoyed. We were split into two groups for that. Then the whole group had a period for cocktains and heavy appetizers and then a light dinner. Later, both my husband and I visited the onsen (mineral baths). They are separated by gender. Very relaxing.
Day 5: A lovely, sunny day. We drove to the Itciku Kimona Museum. But first, on the way, stopped to take photos of Mt. Fuji, which we saw at various times during our drives. The Kimona Museum and grounds were very interesting and lovely. On the bus, we viewed a video explaining the process and also the background of the artist. We then went to the Venetian Glass Museum, where we had lunch and then time to explore the grounds and Museum. Back at the hotel, we had a sushi making demonstration (hands on) and then an included dinner at whatever time we had reserved at either the Japanese restaurant or the Western restaurant. We chose the Japanese restaurant, which was very good. Afterwards, my husband and I again visited the onsen baths.
Day 6: This is the first of two days where we would have access to carryon luggage only for our overnight. We departed to the train station at 8:30 am and arrived in Nagano at lunchtime. We had lunch at the 52nd Floor Zenith Restaurant. Nice views and good lunch. Then we drove by bus to the Inuyama Castle,the oldest standing castle in Japan. It was a short stop for photos and to use the restrooms. There was not enought time to and we were discouraged from climbing up the interior of the castle. Then we drove to the Sanshu Hamono Museum, a sword museum. We had a very interesting sword making demonstration and were able to take photos with the sword and the sword master. Also, a shopping opportunity.
We arrived at Gero Onsen around 5:45 pm. I wish we had arrived earlier, as I really enjoyed the experience of this traditional Japanese Inn, and even an additional 1 hour would have helped. We left our shoes upon entry to the hotel, and were given slip on slippers. My husband and I quickly went to our room, donned our yukatas and visited the baths. I went into both the indoor and outdoor baths (I was the only person there). The outside bath was beautiful, as it overlooked the City and it was dark out. Then, the group gathered for the traditional Kaiseki meal. It was interesting and I liked most of it. wine and beer included. The staff were lovely. After dinner, my husband and I both visited the baths again. (About 10-12 minutes each time). Then we retired to our room and had a very restful sleep on the futon beds. They were quite comfortable.
Day 7: We had a private onsen bath in our room, which I used in the morning. I would have gone to the outdoor bath again, but it was raining. Then, a nice breakfast, mostly Western, but with some Japanese options. After breakfast, we headed downstairs to the coffee area on the first floor, where I could get a cappuccino and there was a sitting area overlooking the pretty grounds of the Inn. There is also a gift shop. Then, the group headed to the Tenryo Sake Brewery for a tour and tasting. I really enjoyed this. We then went to the town of Takayama, where we had a guided tour and time on our own before we were to meet up to walk to lunch at Le Midi. During our independent time, it started to rain very hard. Fortunately, we had our raincoats and umbrellas with us. The lunch was excellent. We then drove by bus to Kanazawa, where we stayed at the Hyatt Centric. Very nice hotel, quiet and comfortable and nicely located near the train station, restaurants and Department stores. Included dinner at Hotel at previously reserved time.
Day 8: Full day in Kanazawa. After breakfast, we drove by bus to the Samurai House and Village, where we had a tour by our local guide, followed by some time on our own. Our local guide recommended the gold leaf vanilla ice cream cone, which we tried. Then, we toured the Kenroku-en Garden (one of the top 3 gardens in Japan). Followed by lunch at the nearby Jardin Paul Bocuse. Then, a very enjoyable private Samurai show (with audience participation). Back to the Hyatt Centric, where we relaxed for a short time and had an on our own sushi dinner at a nearby restaurant.
To be continued...
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Part 2 of Trip Report
Day 9: This is the second day (of 2) in which we would travel with carryon luggage only. After breakfast, the group walked over to the nearby Kanazawa train station, where we boarded the first of three trains we took to Hiroshima. One was a local train and two were bullet trains. I enjoyed the train travel and we were given money to purchase lunch at a station (which we ate on the train). We boarded the third train in Osaka, where we said goodby to our wonderful local guide, Mickey, and hello to our second local guide, Reia, also very good. Upon arrival in Hiroshima, we drove to the ferry to Miyajima Island. There we viewed and took photos of the famous gate submerged in water when the tide is in (which it was) and then walked to and visited the beautiful floating shrine. We were fortunate to see a wedding couple, with the bride in traditional dress. Afterwards, we had some time to explore the shops and eateries. We sampled grilled oysters, as we had seen many oyster beds from the ferry. Then ferry back and bus to the Hilton. Comfortable, quiet room and excellent included buffet dinner (wine included).
Day 10: After breakfast, we were driven to the Peace Museum. As others have posted, the first part of the Museum is devoted to personal stories and relics from the bombing. The second part deals with development of the bomb, decisions to utilize it and where, etc. It is well done. The group then walked through and toured the Peace Memorial Park, which has memorials, gardens, etc. Our walk led us to the dome which was very near the epicenter and survived the blast. From there, we walked to the Orizuru tower. There, we went to the top floor, where there are excellent views of the City and the Peace Memorial Park. We also had the opportunity to make an origami crane, which is then dropped down a chute at the front of the building (the colorful paper is visible from the outside of the building). I needed a lot of help with the origami, but I managed. Afterward, we had a tasty lunch at Zona Italia. Then, we took a bullet train to Kyoto and arrived at the beautiful Four Seasons Hotel. Really nice room and the hotel has a lovely garden area adjacent to the restaurant. Excellent included dinner at previously reserved times.
Day 11: After outstanding breakfast buffet (we ate outside by the garden), we went by bus to the Kinkakuji Temple, known as the Golden Temple. Very beautiful. We then toured the interesting Nijo-jo Castle. Then lunch at Tempura Endo. The group then had a walking tour of the Gion District, including the Kenninji Temple. At that point, the tour ended for the day (and we were given taxi money). Some people chose to return to the hotel immediately. Some broke off on their own to explore. Our tour director walked many of us over to the main shopping area and oriented us for exploration, shopping, finding a taxi, or walking back to the Hotel. My husband and I chose to walk through the very large shopping arcade. We stopped in a local bar for a beer - and interesting experience. We then went to the large Department store and explored the lower level food offerings. Because we had a big lunch, we purchased salads and sandwiches and took our time walking back to the hotel. It had been a full day, and we were happy to enjoy a light dinner in our beautiful room.
Day 12: The group visited the Kiyomizu temple (Pure water Temple). It is striking and is located up in the hills overlooking the City. I did take the opportunity to sample the water of life. The group then visited a Women's Center, where we had a tea ceremony, origami making (and participation) and a furoshiki demonstration. I really enjoyed this visit. The group then had a choice to return to the hotel by bus or be dropped at a Craft Center. We went to the Craft Center. I enjoyed looking around; it is not large. I did purchase matcha tea. We took a taxi back to the Hotel, where we quickly ate a salad and sandwich (purchased at Lawson's - the Japanese convenience stores are awesome). My husband and I then walked through a small shrine near the Hotel, then we went to the nearby Sanjusangen-do Temple. There, we walked through the lovely gardens and then visited the inside of the Temple and its 1001 Buddha statues. I really enjoyed this visit. From there we walked some of the narrow back streets relatively near the Hotel and visited another shrine. It was fun to see a lot of people out and about and women dressed up in rental geisha outfits. That evening we were transported to Sodho restaurant for our very good farewell cocktail reception and dinner. We had two geikos (a/k/a geishas) and one maiko (trainee) perform for us and answer some questions. They were fascinating.
Day 13: We headed out very early with another couple. Very smooth transport and greeting and assistance by the Tauck rep at the Osako airport. Excellent trip home.
As indicated, I really enjoyed this tour. Tauck has done a nice job providing cultural experiences as well as visits to the top attractions. I am not a crafty person, but I enjoyed the origami and the flower arranging, etc. I liked the onsen baths, and particularly enjoyed Gero Onsen for an authentic Japanese Hotel experience.
There is a lot of walking on this tour, inclines, steps, uneven walkways, so good shoes are a must. Also, rain at some point is likely, so rain gear highly recommended. I also recommend easy to handle carryons, especially for the two days when it is necessary to navigate the train stations and get on and off the train expeditiously.
I would be happy to answer any questions.
Lotusgirl, thank you for your exceptional write-up of your tour. Did you tip the Tour Director and driver with yen? How much does one need for the duration of this trip? Your response is appreciated.
You can get money exchanged everywhere in Japan, such as Seven Eleven stores. We exchanged money several times along the way.
If you have yen left over, then you can mix it with dollars. Tauck emphasizes tips in dollars are fine for all their tours, but it’s up to you.
GM - we tipped the tour director in US dollars. No need to tip the various drivers.
We brought about $200 worth of yen.
Hi Lotusgirl,
Thank you so much for your very informative and comprehensive trip report. Our trip is a fair way off in November 2025, but I have a couple of questions if that is ok?
Do you know the name of the Sukiyaki restaurant where you had dinner and would you recommend?
I note that alcohol is not provided at some restaurant meals. Is this across the board or just some? We are not too bothered at lunchtime, but it would be nice to order a Japanese beer now and again, is this is possible? Interestingly we did a trip with Tauck last May to Provence and following complaints on previous tours that alcohol was not always provided they decided change policy and do it.
Sometimes, alcohol is included on Tauck land tours. If it isn’t, then you can order and pay for it. Personally, I like it this way.. We enjoy having wine at dinner on tours because we do not drink and drive at home, so we have to take turns. We observe on tours that many people drink huge amounts of alcohol…example, a bottle of wine at lunch for two, a bottle of wine before dinner and a bottle of wine at dinner. I would not want to see the tour prices increase to accommodate that and it’s not fair on those who do not drink.
On a couple of tours, the group has been taken to stores selling alcohol so that people can buy some extra to consume before dinner.
We ate fantastic meals in Japan of all varieties, some at tiny restaurants down little alleyways. Exquisitely presented and delicious.
RobbieB - the sukiyaki restaurant that we went to in Tokyo is Taishu Sukiyaki Hokuto Ginza Corridor. Our fellow traveler had found it on Tripadvisor. Very casual and reasonable. They were very nice - helped us with the menu and the cooking. It was fun.
As for alcohol with meals, I edited my previous posts to indicate a couple of additional included dinners during which alcohol was included - Gero Onsen and Hilton Hiroshima. I think there were only 3 included dinners at which alcohol was not included, and it was very simple to order whatever you wanted and sign it to the hotel room. Alcohol was not included with the lunches, and some people did order a glass of wine or beer and paid for it themselves.
British - We have been on two previous tours where alcohol was included and never experienced anybody drinking "huge" amounts. Tauck tours are not exactly budget, so considering the cost they should include the option as they did on our previous two tours.
Then it is more likely to be the river cruises and small ships which do include alcohol. . And you haven’t been on the tours where I’ve seen people drinking lots of alcohol. Just my experiences.
No, both tours were small group land tours. Were the boozers on Tauck tours lol?
https://www.bbc.com/reel/video/p0k5mjcx/inside-japan-s-speedy-shinkansen-bullet-train
Above is an interesting video about the Shinkansen
Not exactly budget?
I know a hotel in Osaka that offers unlimited beer and sake for all their guests. Not to mention free ramen at night and tasty cooking demonstrations during the day. You can go through American Express Platinum Travel Concierge to book it. Rooms are very limited. That hotel is very popular.
Henry, does each room come with a Geisha as well?
No! The guy was looking for free drinks.