Alan - The same guy that visited you on the Nile visited me in the Galapagos. I have to admit when I returned to my room and saw what I thought was a person in the bed I instantly dashed back out of the room, apologizing as I left, thinking I had entered the wrong room (you don't lock your rooms on the Isabella II). Back in the hall I notice the towel designer/architect having a good laugh knowing that I had bit into his trick hook, line, and sinker.
Well, you can soon add me to this esteem list. I will have my first hip replacement surgery next month. I never thought I would be this excited about a surgery but I am bone on bone and in constant pain. Just want to get back to traveling again. Alan, even though you had knee replacement surgery, I am in awe by all you were able to do on your recent trip to Egypt.
Thanks- don't forget my severe leg cramps after the Petra treks, and the sore glutes after my deep dive into the burial chamber of the Bent Pryamid! Would I do it all again? You betcha!!
Remember this tour isn't for everyone. Like Classic Italy which is often referred to as the ABC tour (another beautiful church/cathedral), for some J&E can seem like an AT&T tour (another temple or tomb) Also, you don't need to attempt all the extras I did.
AlanS - Your ABC definition (Another Beautiful Church/Cathedral/Castle) is at the start of one of those tours. Later in the tour it is Another Bloody Church/Cathedral/Castle!!
On our Tauck Galapagos and Machu Picchu trip (2014) - I thought my husband was in the Zodiak on his way to snorkel while I returned to our cabin for a short break. He had left his glasses and hat on the bed. I certainly did a double take!
Moving right along. After visiting Kom Ombo we continued to sail northward towards the Temple of Horus at Edfu. I forgot I wanted to look for the massive sandstone quarry (and tombs) at Gebel el-Silsila which is about 30 mi. north of Kom Ombo, D'Oh!! It was the source of most of the sandstone used in ancient temples from Aswan to Luxor. I don't remember where the boat stopped for the night but the bus to the Temple of Horus left at 0900- the latest start on the tour so far!
Day 8 Edfu Temple
In the past, travelers would be taken by horse cart to the temple which is located several blocks inland in the middle of town- I've heard it was like Mr. Toad's Wild Ride. so maybe that is the reason they stopped. This temple was built in the Ptolemy period in the second century BC. And surprise, surprise, it had impressive pylons and walls covered with hieroglyphics and friezes.
Like many of the temples, this one also had a nearly 30 ft. tall enclosure wall made from mud bricks.
Does anyone else think this statue of Horus looks a lot like Sam the Eagle from the Muppets?
This temple had a stairway to the roof, but the top was blocked by a cage door so I couldn't explore there.
When we returned to the boat, moored behind us was the Oberoi Zahra with a Jewels of the Nile tour.
In our rooms was this character. At first we thought it was a lobster, until I noticed the tail looked like it had un-rolled. Once I curled it back up and put something behind it to keep it that way, it was clear it was a scorpion!
We continued to sail northwards past an area of rural farming, transited the Esna locks, and arrived in Luxor after dark. It was dark so we were unable to see the large sandstone quarry at Gebel el-Silsila.
We have a big day tomorrow that promises to be awesome- Karnak Temple complex, Luxor Temple, VOQ/VOK!!! That is a lot for one day.
As I mentioned in my last post above, we arrived in Luxor at night. The boat docked up river (southern part of town) in front of a hotel so we were not near nor could we see the Luxor Temple or Karnak Temple complex from the boat. We needed a bus to get to them. I read that the mayor or Luxor Governate officials made a decision to limit or prohibit Nile cruisers from parking along the Cornish in front of these temples. That, along with the late return to the boat from the VOK put a crimp on one of my hoped extra activities- to get some exterior nighttime photos of the temples. As it turns out the Karnak temple complex is set back quite a ways from the entrance so such a photo might not have been possible anyway. Luxor temple is closer to the river, but it might have been difficult to get a good shot from outside the fence.
Day 9- Karnak, Luxor, Valleys of the Kings and Queens.
The coach left at 0900 for Karnak. Karnak like the temples we saw in Kom Ombo and Edfu had massive pylons, but unlike the others there were more of them and the site was almost continuously expanded and modified over time by approximately 30 ancient Kings. As one source stated, "Every pharaoh worth their salt added and amended the buildings here during their reign . . . " It was never finished and in more than one case, clearly reveals how things were constructed. A UCLA study revealed a bewildering array of temples, chapels, gateway shaped “pylons,” among many other buildings, that were gradually built, torn down and modified over more than 2,000 years. We were only able to see a small sampling. Even though statues, masonry, etc. were looted and carried off by invading armies, early explorers and travelers, what remains is one of the most commanding and majestic temple complexes today. Excavations and reconstruction is still ongoing. Just outside the western-most/most recent pylon, a canal is being excavated that may have connected Karnak with Luxor before construction of the Avenue of the Sphinxes.
The first of many pylons. A new bridge over the canal excavations is visible in the foreground.
There were not many people there when we arrived, but a steady stream arrived and by the time we left for Luxor Temple it was getting busy.
The unfinished columns at the right in this (unfinished) courtyard clearly show how they were constructed- roughly shaped sandstone disks were stacked then sculpted round or in lotus stem or papyrus reed forms.
One of four obelisks commissioned by Queen (Pharaoh) Hatshepsut. Had it been completed the unfinished obelisk in Aswan would have been located here as well. We saw at least one more standing and several broken obelisks, one of which has been the source of controversy- some don't want it repaired and re-erected which is the current plan.
Obelisk being repaired:
I'm not sure if this is the broken base to obelisk being repaired:
Popular tourist photo op:
Restoration work was ongoing on these highly decorated columns:
The hieroglyphics and drawings on many surfaces like these lintels still displayed their original colors:
Again, we only got a glimpse of the Karnak complex which seemed to go on forever:
but it was time to get back on the bus and head to the Luxor Temple. While the fronting pylon is not as impressive as others, the six colossi of Rameses II and the single remaining obelisk (its partner is in Paris) make the exterior of Luxor Temple stand out. If you look online, you'll see that it wasn't that many years ago that there were only 3 or 4 colossi. Inside are the typical peristyle courtyards like the Sun Court, with its papyrus-cluster columns, their capitals imitating the umbels of the papyrus plant in bud, and hypostyle halls. Leading away to the north is the newly refurbished and opened avenue of the sphinxes which leads to the temples at Karnak. There is also evidence of the temple being used as a Roman and Coptic church during Chrisitian times.
After Luxor we headed back to the boat where we had two and a half hours for lunch and rest before we headed to the Necropolis of Thebes and the Valley of Queens and Valley of Kings. A late add to my extra-tour wish list had been a quick visit to the Luxor Museum which is located between the Luxor Temple and Karnak (15 min. on foot from the Luxor Temple.) The guide we booked for a tour in Cairo suggested we had to see it. It is a small, but well done, museum like the one at Petra and only takes 45 min. to an hour to see, so it looked like we might be able to squeeze it in. However, I didn't anticipate the boat wouldn't be docked along the Cornish and had not fully worked out the logistics. In hindsight, we could have visited the museum if we left the group at Luxor Temple, walked across the street for a quick lunch at the McDonald's which is right behind the temple (we always stop at one MickeyDs on every tour anyway) then walk 15 min. to the Museum. After seeing the museum we could have texted the TD or our Egypt guide, who is from Luxor, to arrange a taxi to pick us up and take us to the boat. It could'a worked. Next time.
The afternoon/evening started with a bus ride to the west bank where we made a brief photo stop at the extensive ruins of the Temple of Amenhotep III (grandfather of Tut) to see the so called Colossi of Memnon. We couldn't get close to the rest of the area because of ongoing excavations which have been featured on recent NatGeo/PBS programs, but we were able to see additional, recently discovered and erected colossi in the background. Then it was off to the nearby Valley of Queens to see the mind-blowing tomb of Nefertari, wife of Rameses II. To re-confirm- we were allowed to take DSLR photos (no flash) there.
The main colossi at what was once the entrance to a vast temple complex are a bit worse for the wear, but some of the newly excavated and recently erected colossi seen in the background are in better shape (I forget which one was called the "Whistling Colossi." the wind blowing through part of it made a sound which disappeared when the colossus was repaired in antiquity.
New colossi and evidence of the ongoing dig. Much of what was there was buried under feet of soil deposited by the annual flooding of the Nile so in pretty good shape. Many of the colossi had been toppled in antiquity by an earthquake.
The approach to the Valley of the Queens:
This one will knock your socks off. It was hard to select just a few photos. After you've see this one and compare it to the tombs you will see in the Valley of the Kings (Tut's which requires separate ticket and the three other tombs) you'll understand the difference in ticket prices:
Next we headed for Deir al Bahri and Hatshepsut's multi-level colonnaded temple. This was a photo stop from a distance. I read that most of the temple was reconstructed and there was too much to see and so little time, however, I still would have loved to see it up close. Not long after departing the Valley of Queens on the bus I asked our guide if we would pass near the recently discovered "Golden City of Aten." The discovery made all the papers last year and was highly publicized by Zahi Hawass, the self-styled Indiana Jones of Egypt, who lead the team that discovered it. I knew we were close because before we left home I found it on Google Maps (now it is labeled "Aten on Google Maps.) I don't know if he heard me but I never got a response. Moments later I was looking at the terrain on the right side of the bus when I spotted the unique serpentine walls of the City of Aten that I had seen in all the articles!!!! Unfortunately, I didn't have my camera ready and we passed it by before I could alert our TD and the guide.
We rolled into the VOK at dusk and stopped first for a restroom break at the visitor's center. In the center of the building was an interesting topographical model of the valley- not only did it show the locations of the tombs, but you could look below the surface to see the layouts, all corridors and rooms, of almost every tomb! I believe all tours visit Tut's tomb plus 3 others. Those additional three may change from tour to tour. Also, your local guide can can only tell you about the tomb from the outside and can not enter with you. The last tomb had a steeper entryway and it had been a long day, so only a few from our group entered it.
It wasn't a tomb we entered because they have yet to complete the excavation, but KV5 built for the many sons of Ramesses II (he fathered over 100 children), has at least 130 rooms or chambers as of 2006. Many haven't been fully cleared because the entrance is low to the valley floor and during rare but heavy rains the tomb easily filled with mud and debris.
Tut's tomb was small and modest in decoration, but it still hold's his mummy. It is surprising it could hold all the items removed by Carter in 1922. The Luxor Governate so far has resisted the Supreme Council of Antiquities efforts to move him to Cairo and the GEM. And yes, photos (no flash) were allowed here also.
And here he is, not a Disney replica
You can easily see where the early sci-fi illustrators and 'Ancient Alien' devotees got some of their ideas when you look at the wall art in this tomb!
Besides Tut's tomb, this is the only other one we saw that contained a sarcophagus.
When the tour of the VOK was done everyone was ready to return to the boat for a late dinner and an all-to-short night's sleep. We had a 0630 departure for the flight to Cairo!
We were surprised by this creature when we got back the to boat and opened our cabin door.
MCD
April 6
Alan -- Where are the frescoes? I don't remember having seen them.
The frescoes were at the far (south) end of the Luxor Temple in one of the chapel rooms, not sure but it may have been on the back wall of room #4 labeled "church" or further back on this diagram. One source said they were on the south wall of the "Imperial cult chamber" without saying where this chamber was located. By some of the descriptions of the modifications the Romans made they could have been in room #6.
Here is a link to the best article I found about the frescoes:
Thanks Alan for posting all this. For me it places me right back in these tombs experiencing them again. Such wonderful memories. This was truly a trip of a lifetime. Like you, I loved every minute of it.
Me too!! I missed a few "hope tos" and there are many others I could add- e.g. get a close look at the Royal Tombs and climb the Al Kubtha trail to the Treasury overlook in Petra, fit in a quick visit to the Luxor Museum, do a more in-depth visit to Giza and enter the Pyramid of Khufu this time, visit the ruins of Memphis, etc. etc. I could also arrive early for a Jewels of the Nile tour and visit Abydos which by all accounts is also fantastic!
Thank you for the great pictures and the postings, I'm really grateful for the memories they've brought back, I took that trip in 2007 and I think you may have gone to some places I did'nt, have to look at my notes and pictures.
Day 10 Flight to Cairo / Visit the Egyptian Museum
Another 6:30 go! We said good by to the Philea boarded the bus for Luxor Airport and a new experience- our bags where transported to the airport entrance but unlike our charters we had to pick them up and carry/roll them to and through the initial security and then check in and check our bags individually since we were flying commercial and no longer had an expediter. There were several very long, slow moving lines leading to multiple Egypt Air check-in agents so everyone picked a line. None of the lines were moving quickly. Several of us ultimately picked the wrong one where a large family spent at least a half hour or more attempting to check-in- the line didn't move at all. The Taucktourians in this line had no choice but to jump to other lines. Our TD did a good job hiding her anxiety but time was getting short, especially since we still had to pass through security where there were only two screening lines, and each one had two complete, back-to-back scanners to pass through and also we had to get thorough pat-downs. A number of us were in danger of possibly missing the flight. As it turned out, our flight was delayed an hour!!!
We arrived in Cairo late and fought heavy traffic all the way to the Ritz-Carlton downtown for what was supposed to have been an early lunch. After a nice buffet we walked about 100 yds to the entrance of the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities for a guided tour. We toured for about 2 hours and had all-too-brief time to explore on our own, but I could have spent an entire day there. There is so much to see. What they need are lists with maps like they have in the British Museum, e.g. "Top 20 things to see if you only have an hour," "Top 30 things to see . . . " Maybe that is something Tauck could work up for a number of places the tour visits, not just the Cairo Museum and eventually the GEM. Tut's gold mask and several other pieces from his tomb are still there and displayed in their own small room. According to an Egypt Today article 220 of the over 5600 Tut items still remain in the old museum. Afterwards, it was back into the horrendous Cairo traffic en-route the Marriott Mena House which is in the shadows of the pyramids and not far from the new GEM.
The last morning on Philea we were greeted by hot air balloons over the West Bank.
Many pieces have been removed from the Old Museum but still much remains. I noted some of the wood-framed glass display cases looked exactly like the ones I had seen there over 40 years ago! And as I mentioned in another thread, many displays were lacking labels of any sort and some labels yellowed with age had obviously been typed with an old manual key and ribbon typewriter and were also possibly the same ones I saw years ago! Sarcophagi and mummies were everywhere.
Gilded mortuary chest (shrine) for Tut's canopic jars.
Any "special" Tauck touches or after hours tours on this trip? e.g. When we were in Machu Picchu with Tauck, we were treated to live opera at dinner. It was a highlight! One of the reasons we choose Tauck.
AlanS - I can't imagine any tour that you do in the future not being a complete 'Snoozefest' for you after the amount of research you did into the hikes you did and historical places you visited during this tour, right down to the expected water temperature of the Dead Sea.
I just can't imagine your lack of excitement, after doing this tour, returning to an ABC tour in Europe or a Christmas Markets tour in Europe. What tours do you have lined up?
OBXnana 7:46AM
Any "special" Tauck touches or after hours tours on this trip? e.g. When we were in Machu Picchu with Tauck, we were treated to live opera at dinner. It was a highlight! One of the reasons we choose Tauck. 7:46AM
Everyone healthy? Any COVID scares in the group? Mummy tummy?
I'm not sure- it was all special! Not a surprise, but COVID and weather allowed us to do the tented Bedouin dinner with entertainment (sword dancing troupe) in Little Petra. As you know, I tried to squeeze in some of my own extras in Petra, Aswan, Luxor, and Cairo (didn't happen in Luxor)- the biggest ones, however will be in my next two reports- tickler: during private excursions we traveled south from Cairo to Meidom and entered the intriguing pyramid there, we saw the pyramids in Dahshur up close, especially the Bent Pyramid and I entered all the way, down a long steep tunnel with a ramp/stairway and low ceiling (I had to enter and descend facing backwards) into the heart of the pyramid then climb stairs up several levels of wooden scaffold to reach the burial chamber, we entered the impressive Serapeum and the mastaba tomb of Ty which rivals or exceeds the mastaba of Mereruka we visited with Tauck, I found boat pits in Saqqara which our superb private guide didn't know were there!, saw the causeway (to the Pyramid of Unas) which was in good condition (one section still had its roof), and though we didn't see much, I was excited to observe a dig in progress. It was being filmed by an Aussie photog who works for the BBC, PBS etc. When I asked him if they found anything interesting, his response, "Ooohhhh, my yessss!!!" but he wouldn't give me any other details.
All healthy, no mummy tummy that I know of, all negative on exit COVID test, but I was infected, as best I could tell, by some other Americans (one obviously sick) in the Cairo Airport Business Lounge or later by the same group during our flight to Istanbul.
Smiling Sam
10:57AM
AlanS - I can't imagine any tour that you do in the future not being a complete 'Snoozefest' for you after the amount of research you did into the hikes you did and historical places you visited during this tour, right down to the expected water temperature of the Dead Sea.
I just can't imagine your lack of excitement, after doing this tour, returning to an ABC tour in Europe or a Christmas Markets tour in Europe. What tours do you have lined up?
Remember, this was our third attempt and I had three years to suffer through, so in addition to my natural interest in such things, I had to find some way to help pass the time. It was so worth it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! When someone asked my wife if I enjoyed the tour, she responded, "He was like a kid in a candy store!" That accurately sums it up. I'm still smiling!! I'm still doing research and reliving the trip though my photos and posts here- the gift that keeps on giving. I would go back in a heartbeat!!
In 37 days, 21 hours, 56 min. we have Treasures of the Aegean (I planned only one, private, pre-tour excursion to Delphi - to consult with the Oracle about the future- and an extra walking tour of Athens, to places not visited with Tauck ), and in Dec. we have XMAS Mkts on the Rhine with a quick post-tour train ride to Hamburg to see Miniatur Wunderland- interesting for children of all ages!
Fantastic photos! We can't wait until October...but will have to. Especially nice to see the interior photos in the tombs since when were there several years ago, no interior photos were allowed in the tombs we visited (like Tut's).
Today's activities started at 8:00 am. After a brief bus trip (across the street ) we arrived at the Giza Plateau and the Great Pyramid of Khufu (Cheops). The morning sun and haze did not make for good photos.
Almost none of the white Tura limestone sheathing remains on the Great Pyramid- starting in antiquity it was all removed and re-used for other structures. Remember these views when you see the close-up photos of the Bent Pyramid I will post later.
Some sheathing remains at the top of the Pyramid of Khafre.
The sheathing stones remaining at the base of the pyramid illustrate how the exterior was constructed- it wasn't just a thin layer of limestone- and give an idea how the entire surface of the pyramid looked. I've seen artist's renderings of the Giza plateau with gleaming white pyramids, it must have been awesome back in the day!
The original, but hidden, entrance with heavy blocks in a chevron layout. The small opening at the lower right is used by tourists and was cut by ancient tomb robbers. Unfortunately, we were not able to use either- it was not on the schedule like it was in previous years. More about that later.
Three smaller, mostly-destroyed pyramids and/or mastaba tombs are located along the Eastern side of the Great pyramid, one of which was for Hetepheres, wife of Sneferu and mother of Khufu. The entire area around all three large pyramids is filled with smaller pyramids, small mortuary temples, and numerous mastaba tombs.
We re-boarded the bus and drove around to the west side of the pyramids for a photo op and/or a camel ride. Due to the elevations of the plateau after leveling, the bases were at different elevations which is why the pyramid of Khufu on the left doesn't look as tall as Khafre's. The third large pyramid, second from the right, is that of Menkaure of the great pyramid building family- Sneferu built 3 pyramids, one at Meidom and the Bent and Red pyramids in Dahshur, His son Khufu built the Great Pyramid. Khufu's son Khafre built the middle pyramid, and his son, Menkaure built the smallest of the three. The little pyramid at the far right is actually a row of 3 pyramids of the Queens. On day we were there they were holding a powered para-soaring competition- it was a bit annoying due to the engine noise and inability to take photos without a paraglider getting in frame.
After some photos and camel rides we continued on to the sphinx.
After spending some time at the Sphinx and nearby Temples of the Sphinx and Ra we headed to the Saqqara area and stopped for nice BBQ buffet lunch at the Palm Club and Restaurant which is located in a date palm grove. At Saqqara we first stopped at the Mastaba of Mereruka. It was divided into four main areas for members of his family. Our guide spent some time pointing out a number of the key features of the extensive wall art and hieroglyphics. He was a big deal. Among his many titles Mereruka was the Visier to King Teti I.
The walls of the tomb were covered with everyday scenes of hunting crocodiles, hippos, fishing, etc.
Those who desired could then enter the nearby pyramid of Teti I. While the exterior was mainly a pile of rubble, the interior chambers were intact. I entered but did not take photos, not sure why.
Finally we rode over to the main attraction in Saqqara, the step pyramid complex of Djoser where we saw the enclosure wall, entrance to the complex, entry colonnade, and south court. We were not provided the opportunity to enter this pyramid, most likely because of the difficulty and time (if not cost.)
Chapels of the Heb Sed Court:
Entrance Gate and short sections of the immense and tall (30'+) Enclosure Wall:
Entry Colonnade:
The Pyramid of Djoser has undergone stabilization and partial restoration over many years. I have never seen of photo of it taken in recent years without scaffolding around some part of it. There was no scaffolding there today!!! (reminded me of our visit to Rosslyn Chapel on England, Scotland and Wales- we saw the chapel without the scaffold which had been in place for 14 years!)
On 5 March 2020, the Step Pyramid of Djoser was re-opened to visitors for the first time after a 14-year restoration project. In addition to the king’s burial chamber, a labyrinth of tunnels totaling nearly 3.5 mi. in length was quarried out beneath the pyramid. There is a central corridor and two parallel ones that extend 1200 feet. These are joined by a complicated tangle of underground galleries, shafts, and tunnels. The corridors connect a series of subterranean galleries—nearly 400 rooms in total!—including those that held the family burials and the cache of finely carved vessels of calcite and hard stone. One suite of rooms was designed as a palace for the king’s ka to enjoy in the afterlife.
Until visiting, I never knew the Step Pyramid had also been sheathed in limestone!
WOW! I really appreciate your great photos and information you have given about this trip. Obviously, you have done a lot of research before traveling to Egypt. Do you have any books that you reccommend reading before taking this trip?
Mimi- a lot of my research was done through deep dives on the internet after watching one of the many Nat Geo or PBS specials that have been shown on TV in recent years and after coming up with a question- one answer leads to another question. I barely know enough to be dangerous, but I was really drawn in.
I have a few books, mainly picture books that show a lot of the really neat stuff. The best basic, but biggest and most colorfully-illustrated (real eye candy), is "The Encyclopedia of Ancient Egypt" edited by Helen Strudwick- it is a large softcover book. It can be a bit expensive but older editions can often be found at used book sales and as a used book from Amazon. The most academic book I read was "A World Beneath the Sands, The Golden Age of Egyptology" by Toby Wilkinson and available from various booksellers. I'm not a big reader and a few times I had a hard time staying engaged, but many sections were extremely interesting and enlightening, especially about what the world powers did to Egypt's antiquities in the 1800's. The rulers of Egypt were not blameless. It covers all the big name "archaeologists" and "Egyptologists" (note my use of quotation marks!), from Napoleon, to Belzoni, Champollion, Flinders Petrie, Lepsius, Maspero, Auguste Marriette, Wallis Budge, Howard Carter, Indiana Jones (just kidding), George Reisner, etc., etc. It is heavily footnoted, and has a few illustrations. I found that what I assumed about various events and discoveries was far from the truth, e.g. The discovery of the Rosetta Stone in 1799 did not immediately allow reading and translating hieroglyphics. Even with this major key it took a few people like Champollion and now mostly forgotten and un-credited Thomas Young, with somewhat conflicting methodologies, years (not until 1882/23) to finally come to the realization that it was a hybrid writing system, both phonetic and pictographic/symbolic, that finally allowed reliable translation.
I find I am not ready to contribute much of a critique at the end of a tour, so often follow up a few weeks later with a letter to the TD and/or Tauck with suggestions. I've got a couple brewing. One of which is to include some short (1 page) daily handouts. Our local guides were founts of knowledge, but they had so much to relate, sometimes it was like a firehose, that eyes would glaze over, minds would wander, and people would start talking, both at the sites and especially on the bus. I sometimes felt sorry for the guides, they were so enthusiastic and wanted to relate their information. My suggestion is to hand out a single page with brief info about the key features we will see during the upcoming day's excursion- a frieze showing, etc., tomb reliefs showing, etc., etc.- very brief descriptions that people can read the evening before so they know a little about what the guide is describing in detail during the excursion. If there will be time to explore on our own, a version might include additional features to see, using a simple locator map, or find- a scavenger hunt of sorts. There wasn't much time to explore on our own on this tour, however.
Comments
Alan - The same guy that visited you on the Nile visited me in the Galapagos. I have to admit when I returned to my room and saw what I thought was a person in the bed I instantly dashed back out of the room, apologizing as I left, thinking I had entered the wrong room (you don't lock your rooms on the Isabella II). Back in the hall I notice the towel designer/architect having a good laugh knowing that I had bit into his trick hook, line, and sinker.
OBXnana - I’ll bet at least half the people on Tauck trips are in the same situation. 2 knee replacements here. Nothing to worry about.
2 hip replacements for me...
All original equipment here.
Well, you can soon add me to this esteem list. I will have my first hip replacement surgery next month. I never thought I would be this excited about a surgery but I am bone on bone and in constant pain. Just want to get back to traveling again. Alan, even though you had knee replacement surgery, I am in awe by all you were able to do on your recent trip to Egypt.
Thanks- don't forget my severe leg cramps after the Petra treks, and the sore glutes after my deep dive into the burial chamber of the Bent Pryamid!
Would I do it all again? You betcha!!
Remember this tour isn't for everyone. Like Classic Italy which is often referred to as the ABC tour (another beautiful church/cathedral), for some J&E can seem like an AT&T tour (another temple or tomb)
Also, you don't need to attempt all the extras I did.
AlanS - Your ABC definition (Another Beautiful Church/Cathedral/Castle) is at the start of one of those tours. Later in the tour it is Another Bloody Church/Cathedral/Castle!!
On our Tauck Galapagos and Machu Picchu trip (2014) - I thought my husband was in the Zodiak on his way to snorkel while I returned to our cabin for a short break. He had left his glasses and hat on the bed. I certainly did a double take!
Moving right along. After visiting Kom Ombo we continued to sail northward towards the Temple of Horus at Edfu. I forgot I wanted to look for the massive sandstone quarry (and tombs) at Gebel el-Silsila which is about 30 mi. north of Kom Ombo, D'Oh!! It was the source of most of the sandstone used in ancient temples from Aswan to Luxor. I don't remember where the boat stopped for the night but the bus to the Temple of Horus left at 0900- the latest start on the tour so far!
In the past, travelers would be taken by horse cart to the temple which is located several blocks inland in the middle of town- I've heard it was like Mr. Toad's Wild Ride.
so maybe that is the reason they stopped. This temple was built in the Ptolemy period in the second century BC. And surprise, surprise, it had impressive pylons and walls covered with hieroglyphics and friezes.
Like many of the temples, this one also had a nearly 30 ft. tall enclosure wall made from mud bricks.
Does anyone else think this statue of Horus looks a lot like Sam the Eagle from the Muppets?
This temple had a stairway to the roof, but the top was blocked by a cage door so I couldn't explore there.
When we returned to the boat, moored behind us was the Oberoi Zahra with a Jewels of the Nile tour.
In our rooms was this character. At first we thought it was a lobster, until I noticed the tail looked like it had un-rolled. Once I curled it back up and put something behind it to keep it that way, it was clear it was a scorpion!
We continued to sail northwards past an area of rural farming, transited the Esna locks, and arrived in Luxor after dark. It was dark so we were unable to see the large sandstone quarry at Gebel el-Silsila.
We have a big day tomorrow that promises to be awesome- Karnak Temple complex, Luxor Temple, VOQ/VOK!!! That is a lot for one day.
As I mentioned in my last post above, we arrived in Luxor at night. The boat docked up river (southern part of town) in front of a hotel so we were not near nor could we see the Luxor Temple or Karnak Temple complex from the boat. We needed a bus to get to them. I read that the mayor or Luxor Governate officials made a decision to limit or prohibit Nile cruisers from parking along the Cornish in front of these temples. That, along with the late return to the boat from the VOK put a crimp on one of my hoped extra activities- to get some exterior nighttime photos of the temples. As it turns out the Karnak temple complex is set back quite a ways from the entrance so such a photo might not have been possible anyway. Luxor temple is closer to the river, but it might have been difficult to get a good shot from outside the fence.
The coach left at 0900 for Karnak. Karnak like the temples we saw in Kom Ombo and Edfu had massive pylons, but unlike the others there were more of them and the site was almost continuously expanded and modified over time by approximately 30 ancient Kings. As one source stated, "Every pharaoh worth their salt added and amended the buildings here during their reign . . . " It was never finished and in more than one case, clearly reveals how things were constructed. A UCLA study revealed a bewildering array of temples, chapels, gateway shaped “pylons,” among many other buildings, that were gradually built, torn down and modified over more than 2,000 years. We were only able to see a small sampling. Even though statues, masonry, etc. were looted and carried off by invading armies, early explorers and travelers, what remains is one of the most commanding and majestic temple complexes today. Excavations and reconstruction is still ongoing. Just outside the western-most/most recent pylon, a canal is being excavated that may have connected Karnak with Luxor before construction of the Avenue of the Sphinxes.
The first of many pylons. A new bridge over the canal excavations is visible in the foreground.
There were not many people there when we arrived, but a steady stream arrived and by the time we left for Luxor Temple it was getting busy.
The unfinished columns at the right in this (unfinished) courtyard clearly show how they were constructed- roughly shaped sandstone disks were stacked then sculpted round or in lotus stem or papyrus reed forms.
One of four obelisks commissioned by Queen (Pharaoh) Hatshepsut. Had it been completed the unfinished obelisk in Aswan would have been located here as well. We saw at least one more standing and several broken obelisks, one of which has been the source of controversy- some don't want it repaired and re-erected which is the current plan.
Obelisk being repaired:
I'm not sure if this is the broken base to obelisk being repaired:
Popular tourist photo op:
Restoration work was ongoing on these highly decorated columns:
The hieroglyphics and drawings on many surfaces like these lintels still displayed their original colors:
Again, we only got a glimpse of the Karnak complex which seemed to go on forever:
but it was time to get back on the bus and head to the Luxor Temple. While the fronting pylon is not as impressive as others, the six colossi of Rameses II and the single remaining obelisk (its partner is in Paris) make the exterior of Luxor Temple stand out. If you look online, you'll see that it wasn't that many years ago that there were only 3 or 4 colossi. Inside are the typical peristyle courtyards like the Sun Court, with its papyrus-cluster columns, their capitals imitating the umbels of the papyrus plant in bud, and hypostyle halls. Leading away to the north is the newly refurbished and opened avenue of the sphinxes which leads to the temples at Karnak. There is also evidence of the temple being used as a Roman and Coptic church during Chrisitian times.
Stand by for Day 9, Part 2 . . .
More great pics!
Love all the pictures!!! Weather looks like it was nice, too,
Alan -- Where are the frescoes? I don't remember having seen them.
After Luxor we headed back to the boat where we had two and a half hours for lunch and rest before we headed to the Necropolis of Thebes and the Valley of Queens and Valley of Kings. A late add to my extra-tour wish list had been a quick visit to the Luxor Museum which is located between the Luxor Temple and Karnak (15 min. on foot from the Luxor Temple.) The guide we booked for a tour in Cairo suggested we had to see it. It is a small, but well done, museum like the one at Petra and only takes 45 min. to an hour to see, so it looked like we might be able to squeeze it in. However, I didn't anticipate the boat wouldn't be docked along the Cornish and had not fully worked out the logistics. In hindsight, we could have visited the museum if we left the group at Luxor Temple, walked across the street for a quick lunch at the McDonald's
which is right behind the temple (we always stop at one MickeyDs on every tour anyway) then walk 15 min. to the Museum. After seeing the museum we could have texted the TD or our Egypt guide, who is from Luxor, to arrange a taxi to pick us up and take us to the boat. It could'a worked. Next time.
The afternoon/evening started with a bus ride to the west bank where we made a brief photo stop at the extensive ruins of the Temple of Amenhotep III (grandfather of Tut) to see the so called Colossi of Memnon. We couldn't get close to the rest of the area because of ongoing excavations which have been featured on recent NatGeo/PBS programs, but we were able to see additional, recently discovered and erected colossi in the background. Then it was off to the nearby Valley of Queens to see the mind-blowing tomb of Nefertari, wife of Rameses II. To re-confirm- we were allowed to take DSLR photos (no flash) there.
The main colossi at what was once the entrance to a vast temple complex are a bit worse for the wear, but some of the newly excavated and recently erected colossi seen in the background are in better shape (I forget which one was called the "Whistling Colossi." the wind blowing through part of it made a sound which disappeared when the colossus was repaired in antiquity.
New colossi and evidence of the ongoing dig. Much of what was there was buried under feet of soil deposited by the annual flooding of the Nile so in pretty good shape. Many of the colossi had been toppled in antiquity by an earthquake.
The approach to the Valley of the Queens:
This one will knock your socks off. It was hard to select just a few photos. After you've see this one and compare it to the tombs you will see in the Valley of the Kings (Tut's which requires separate ticket and the three other tombs) you'll understand the difference in ticket prices:
Next we headed for Deir al Bahri and Hatshepsut's multi-level colonnaded temple. This was a photo stop from a distance. I read that most of the temple was reconstructed and there was too much to see and so little time, however, I still would have loved to see it up close. Not long after departing the Valley of Queens on the bus I asked our guide if we would pass near the recently discovered "Golden City of Aten." The discovery made all the papers last year and was highly publicized by Zahi Hawass, the self-styled Indiana Jones of Egypt, who lead the team that discovered it. I knew we were close because before we left home I found it on Google Maps (now it is labeled "Aten on Google Maps.) I don't know if he heard me but I never got a response. Moments later I was looking at the terrain on the right side of the bus when I spotted the unique serpentine walls of the City of Aten that I had seen in all the articles!!!! Unfortunately, I didn't have my camera ready and we passed it by before I could alert our TD and the guide.
We rolled into the VOK at dusk and stopped first for a restroom break at the visitor's center. In the center of the building was an interesting topographical model of the valley- not only did it show the locations of the tombs, but you could look below the surface to see the layouts, all corridors and rooms, of almost every tomb! I believe all tours visit Tut's tomb plus 3 others. Those additional three may change from tour to tour. Also, your local guide can can only tell you about the tomb from the outside and can not enter with you. The last tomb had a steeper entryway and it had been a long day, so only a few from our group entered it.
It wasn't a tomb we entered because they have yet to complete the excavation, but KV5 built for the many sons of Ramesses II (he fathered over 100 children), has at least 130 rooms or chambers as of 2006. Many haven't been fully cleared because the entrance is low to the valley floor and during rare but heavy rains the tomb easily filled with mud and debris.
Tut's tomb was small and modest in decoration, but it still hold's his mummy. It is surprising it could hold all the items removed by Carter in 1922. The Luxor Governate so far has resisted the Supreme Council of Antiquities efforts to move him to Cairo and the GEM. And yes, photos (no flash) were allowed here also.
And here he is, not a Disney replica
You can easily see where the early sci-fi illustrators and 'Ancient Alien' devotees got some of their ideas when you look at the wall art in this tomb!
Besides Tut's tomb, this is the only other one we saw that contained a sarcophagus.
When the tour of the VOK was done everyone was ready to return to the boat for a late dinner and an all-to-short night's sleep. We had a 0630 departure for the flight to Cairo!
We were surprised by this creature when we got back the to boat and opened our cabin door.
The frescoes were at the far (south) end of the Luxor Temple in one of the chapel rooms, not sure but it may have been on the back wall of room #4 labeled "church" or further back on this diagram. One source said they were on the south wall of the "Imperial cult chamber" without saying where this chamber was located. By some of the descriptions of the modifications the Romans made they could have been in room #6.
Here is a link to the best article I found about the frescoes:
https://www.instagram.com/digitalepigraphyofficial/guide/documenting-the-late-roman-murals-at-luxor-temple/17905803886704230/
Thanks Alan for posting all this. For me it places me right back in these tombs experiencing them again. Such wonderful memories. This was truly a trip of a lifetime. Like you, I loved every minute of it.
Love all the pics. I would do this trip again .... It's is Amazing
Me too!! I missed a few "hope tos" and there are many others I could add- e.g. get a close look at the Royal Tombs and climb the Al Kubtha trail to the Treasury overlook in Petra, fit in a quick visit to the Luxor Museum, do a more in-depth visit to Giza and enter the Pyramid of Khufu this time, visit the ruins of Memphis, etc. etc. I could also arrive early for a Jewels of the Nile tour and visit Abydos which by all accounts is also fantastic!
Thank you for the great pictures and the postings, I'm really grateful for the memories they've brought back, I took that trip in 2007 and I think you may have gone to some places I did'nt, have to look at my notes and pictures.
Another 6:30 go! We said good by to the Philea boarded the bus for Luxor Airport and a new experience- our bags where transported to the airport entrance but unlike our charters we had to pick them up and carry/roll them to and through the initial security and then check in and check our bags individually since we were flying commercial and no longer had an expediter. There were several very long, slow moving lines leading to multiple Egypt Air check-in agents so everyone picked a line. None of the lines were moving quickly. Several of us ultimately picked the wrong one where a large family spent at least a half hour or more attempting to check-in- the line didn't move at all. The Taucktourians in this line had no choice but to jump to other lines. Our TD did a good job hiding her anxiety but time was getting short, especially since we still had to pass through security where there were only two screening lines, and each one had two complete, back-to-back scanners to pass through and also we had to get thorough pat-downs. A number of us were in danger of possibly missing the flight. As it turned out, our flight was delayed an hour!!!
We arrived in Cairo late and fought heavy traffic all the way to the Ritz-Carlton downtown for what was supposed to have been an early lunch. After a nice buffet we walked about 100 yds to the entrance of the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities for a guided tour. We toured for about 2 hours and had all-too-brief time to explore on our own, but I could have spent an entire day there. There is so much to see. What they need are lists with maps like they have in the British Museum, e.g. "Top 20 things to see if you only have an hour," "Top 30 things to see . . . " Maybe that is something Tauck could work up for a number of places the tour visits, not just the Cairo Museum and eventually the GEM. Tut's gold mask and several other pieces from his tomb are still there and displayed in their own small room. According to an Egypt Today article 220 of the over 5600 Tut items still remain in the old museum. Afterwards, it was back into the horrendous Cairo traffic en-route the Marriott Mena House which is in the shadows of the pyramids and not far from the new GEM.
The last morning on Philea we were greeted by hot air balloons over the West Bank.
Many pieces have been removed from the Old Museum but still much remains. I noted some of the wood-framed glass display cases looked exactly like the ones I had seen there over 40 years ago! And as I mentioned in another thread, many displays were lacking labels of any sort and some labels yellowed with age had obviously been typed with an old manual key and ribbon typewriter and were also possibly the same ones I saw years ago! Sarcophagi and mummies were everywhere.
Gilded mortuary chest (shrine) for Tut's canopic jars.
Tut's four alabaster canopic jars:
The fantastic view from our balcony:
Any "special" Tauck touches or after hours tours on this trip? e.g. When we were in Machu Picchu with Tauck, we were treated to live opera at dinner. It was a highlight! One of the reasons we choose Tauck.
Everyone healthy? Any COVID scares in the group? Mummy tummy?
Alan already mentioned he got. Covid, probably on the ✈️
AlanS - I can't imagine any tour that you do in the future not being a complete 'Snoozefest' for you after the amount of research you did into the hikes you did and historical places you visited during this tour, right down to the expected water temperature of the Dead Sea.
I just can't imagine your lack of excitement, after doing this tour, returning to an ABC tour in Europe or a Christmas Markets tour in Europe. What tours do you have lined up?
I'm not sure- it was all special! Not a surprise, but COVID and weather allowed us to do the tented Bedouin dinner with entertainment (sword dancing troupe) in Little Petra. As you know, I tried to squeeze in some of my own extras in Petra, Aswan, Luxor, and Cairo (didn't happen in Luxor)- the biggest ones, however will be in my next two reports- tickler: during private excursions we traveled south from Cairo to Meidom and entered the intriguing pyramid there, we saw the pyramids in Dahshur up close, especially the Bent Pyramid and I entered all the way, down a long steep tunnel with a ramp/stairway and low ceiling (I had to enter and descend facing backwards) into the heart of the pyramid then climb stairs up several levels of wooden scaffold to reach the burial chamber, we entered the impressive Serapeum and the mastaba tomb of Ty which rivals or exceeds the mastaba of Mereruka we visited with Tauck, I found boat pits in Saqqara which our superb private guide didn't know were there!, saw the causeway (to the Pyramid of Unas) which was in good condition (one section still had its roof), and though we didn't see much, I was excited to observe a dig in progress. It was being filmed by an Aussie photog who works for the BBC, PBS etc. When I asked him if they found anything interesting, his response, "Ooohhhh, my yessss!!!" but he wouldn't give me any other details.
All healthy, no mummy tummy that I know of, all negative on exit COVID test, but I was infected, as best I could tell, by some other Americans (one obviously sick) in the Cairo Airport Business Lounge or later by the same group during our flight to Istanbul.
Remember, this was our third attempt and I had three years to suffer through, so in addition to my natural interest in such things, I had to find some way to help pass the time. It was so worth it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! When someone asked my wife if I enjoyed the tour, she responded, "He was like a kid in a candy store!" That accurately sums it up.
I'm still smiling!! I'm still doing research and reliving the trip though my photos and posts here- the gift that keeps on giving. 
I would go back in a heartbeat!!
In 37 days, 21 hours, 56 min. we have Treasures of the Aegean (I planned only one, private, pre-tour excursion to Delphi - to consult with the Oracle about the future- and an extra walking tour of Athens, to places not visited with Tauck
), and in Dec. we have XMAS Mkts on the Rhine with a quick post-tour train ride to Hamburg to see Miniatur Wunderland- interesting for children of all ages! 
Alan,
Fantastic photos! We can't wait until October...but will have to. Especially nice to see the interior photos in the tombs since when were there several years ago, no interior photos were allowed in the tombs we visited (like Tut's).
Strap in!!
Today's activities started at 8:00 am. After a brief bus trip (across the street
) we arrived at the Giza Plateau and the Great Pyramid of Khufu (Cheops). The morning sun and haze did not make for good photos.
Almost none of the white Tura limestone sheathing remains on the Great Pyramid- starting in antiquity it was all removed and re-used for other structures. Remember these views when you see the close-up photos of the Bent Pyramid I will post later.
Some sheathing remains at the top of the Pyramid of Khafre.
The sheathing stones remaining at the base of the pyramid illustrate how the exterior was constructed- it wasn't just a thin layer of limestone- and give an idea how the entire surface of the pyramid looked. I've seen artist's renderings of the Giza plateau with gleaming white pyramids, it must have been awesome back in the day!
The original, but hidden, entrance with heavy blocks in a chevron layout. The small opening at the lower right is used by tourists and was cut by ancient tomb robbers. Unfortunately, we were not able to use either- it was not on the schedule like it was in previous years. More about that later.
Three smaller, mostly-destroyed pyramids and/or mastaba tombs are located along the Eastern side of the Great pyramid, one of which was for Hetepheres, wife of Sneferu and mother of Khufu. The entire area around all three large pyramids is filled with smaller pyramids, small mortuary temples, and numerous mastaba tombs.
We re-boarded the bus and drove around to the west side of the pyramids for a photo op and/or a camel ride. Due to the elevations of the plateau after leveling, the bases were at different elevations which is why the pyramid of Khufu on the left doesn't look as tall as Khafre's. The third large pyramid, second from the right, is that of Menkaure of the great pyramid building family- Sneferu built 3 pyramids, one at Meidom and the Bent and Red pyramids in Dahshur, His son Khufu built the Great Pyramid. Khufu's son Khafre built the middle pyramid, and his son, Menkaure built the smallest of the three. The little pyramid at the far right is actually a row of 3 pyramids of the Queens. On day we were there they were holding a powered para-soaring competition- it was a bit annoying due to the engine noise and inability to take photos without a paraglider getting in frame.
After some photos and camel rides we continued on to the sphinx.
After spending some time at the Sphinx and nearby Temples of the Sphinx and Ra we headed to the Saqqara area and stopped for nice BBQ buffet lunch at the Palm Club and Restaurant which is located in a date palm grove. At Saqqara we first stopped at the Mastaba of Mereruka. It was divided into four main areas for members of his family. Our guide spent some time pointing out a number of the key features of the extensive wall art and hieroglyphics. He was a big deal. Among his many titles Mereruka was the Visier to King Teti I.
The walls of the tomb were covered with everyday scenes of hunting crocodiles, hippos, fishing, etc.
Those who desired could then enter the nearby pyramid of Teti I. While the exterior was mainly a pile of rubble, the interior chambers were intact. I entered but did not take photos, not sure why.
Finally we rode over to the main attraction in Saqqara, the step pyramid complex of Djoser where we saw the enclosure wall, entrance to the complex, entry colonnade, and south court. We were not provided the opportunity to enter this pyramid, most likely because of the difficulty and time (if not cost.)
Chapels of the Heb Sed Court:
Entrance Gate and short sections of the immense and tall (30'+) Enclosure Wall:
Entry Colonnade:
The Pyramid of Djoser has undergone stabilization and partial restoration over many years. I have never seen of photo of it taken in recent years without scaffolding around some part of it. There was no scaffolding there today!!! (reminded me of our visit to Rosslyn Chapel on England, Scotland and Wales- we saw the chapel without the scaffold which had been in place for 14 years!)
On 5 March 2020, the Step Pyramid of Djoser was re-opened to visitors for the first time after a 14-year restoration project. In addition to the king’s burial chamber, a labyrinth of tunnels totaling nearly 3.5 mi. in length was quarried out beneath the pyramid. There is a central corridor and two parallel ones that extend 1200 feet. These are joined by a complicated tangle of underground galleries, shafts, and tunnels. The corridors connect a series of subterranean galleries—nearly 400 rooms in total!—including those that held the family burials and the cache of finely carved vessels of calcite and hard stone. One suite of rooms was designed as a palace for the king’s ka to enjoy in the afterlife.
Until visiting, I never knew the Step Pyramid had also been sheathed in limestone!
WOW! I really appreciate your great photos and information you have given about this trip. Obviously, you have done a lot of research before traveling to Egypt. Do you have any books that you reccommend reading before taking this trip?
Mimi- a lot of my research was done through deep dives on the internet after watching one of the many Nat Geo or PBS specials that have been shown on TV in recent years and after coming up with a question- one answer leads to another question.
I barely know enough to be dangerous, but I was really drawn in.
I have a few books, mainly picture books that show a lot of the really neat stuff. The best basic, but biggest and most colorfully-illustrated (real eye candy), is "The Encyclopedia of Ancient Egypt" edited by Helen Strudwick- it is a large softcover book. It can be a bit expensive but older editions can often be found at used book sales and as a used book from Amazon. The most academic book I read was "A World Beneath the Sands, The Golden Age of Egyptology" by Toby Wilkinson and available from various booksellers. I'm not a big reader and a few times I had a hard time staying engaged, but many sections were extremely interesting and enlightening, especially about what the world powers did to Egypt's antiquities in the 1800's. The rulers of Egypt were not blameless. It covers all the big name "archaeologists" and "Egyptologists" (note my use of quotation marks!), from Napoleon, to Belzoni, Champollion, Flinders Petrie, Lepsius, Maspero, Auguste Marriette, Wallis Budge, Howard Carter, Indiana Jones (just kidding), George Reisner, etc., etc. It is heavily footnoted, and has a few illustrations. I found that what I assumed about various events and discoveries was far from the truth, e.g. The discovery of the Rosetta Stone in 1799 did not immediately allow reading and translating hieroglyphics. Even with this major key it took a few people like Champollion and now mostly forgotten and un-credited Thomas Young, with somewhat conflicting methodologies, years (not until 1882/23) to finally come to the realization that it was a hybrid writing system, both phonetic and pictographic/symbolic, that finally allowed reliable translation.
I find I am not ready to contribute much of a critique at the end of a tour, so often follow up a few weeks later with a letter to the TD and/or Tauck with suggestions. I've got a couple brewing. One of which is to include some short (1 page) daily handouts. Our local guides were founts of knowledge, but they had so much to relate, sometimes it was like a firehose, that eyes would glaze over, minds would wander, and people would start talking, both at the sites and especially on the bus. I sometimes felt sorry for the guides, they were so enthusiastic and wanted to relate their information. My suggestion is to hand out a single page with brief info about the key features we will see during the upcoming day's excursion- a frieze showing, etc., tomb reliefs showing, etc., etc.- very brief descriptions that people can read the evening before so they know a little about what the guide is describing in detail during the excursion. If there will be time to explore on our own, a version might include additional features to see, using a simple locator map, or find- a scavenger hunt of sorts. There wasn't much time to explore on our own on this tour, however.
Alan - I would add that on the Zahra, in each room there was a book that could be referenced before each day’s excursions. It was very helpful.